08' Subaru Forester 5spd - need to drop tranny..

[webfors]

Thought I would post the recent developments of my manual subaru transmission. I posted a troubleshooting thread on our local subaru club forum:

http://www.ottawasubaru.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=37349

Looks like a release bearing needs to be replaced, which requires the transmission, or engine, be dropped/hoisted. It's a bloody $60 part, that if not replaced will eventually score/damage the input shaft/snout.

The consensus is to do a clutch job at the same time due to the effort to get in there, and I do have approximately 85k miles.

I've also researched the tsk1 TOB kit, which prevents further scoring/damage to the input shaft, details of which can be found here:

http://www.subaruwrxparts.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=1793

I'm looking for wisdom on this process. I'm thinking of doing the work myself since the price range for this job is between $1200 and $1500, while the parts for a full clutch kit, release bearing (aka: throw out bearing, no pun intended) pilot bearing, clutch fork and fork boot will run me around $700 for all OEM or $800 if I go with the aftermarket TSK1 release bearing replacement.

 

[05LGTLtd]

If you have access to a lift, dropping the transmission is easier. Replace any bad cv boots and the half shaft seals at the same time.

If you don't have a lift, but have or can rent a cherry picker, that's your other option. Doesn't take that much to pull a NA Subaru engine. I like to take a pack of multi colored zip ties and use them to mark connections. You can clip them off later. With just a few colors combinations you can get all the connections labeled. It's a good time to change your coolant, as pulling the radiator takes only afew minutes and gives you a alot more room. Plug the fuel lines with screwdrivers. While the engine is out is the ideal time to do the timing belt, btw...

You won't actually need to completely pull the engine, but just move forward enough to change the clutch. You should be able to find a video or walkthrough on line about this approach.

Good luck which ever way you go at it.

 

[fdcg27]

Yeah, if you take it apart you should replace all three clutch parts. You may need a flywheel as well. Does this design use a pilot bearing? If so, you need to replace it while everything is apart.
If you end up pulling the engine/transaxle assembly, I know that I'd do the timing belt, with a new water pump and tensioners.
If you can do it while it's almost due and do it easy, then why not?

 

[webfors]

Yes, it has a pilot bearing, which I would also replace.

I agree that doing it all at once makes sense from a time perspective, but from a cost perspective the progression in cost of parts is:

$60 OEM TOB or $150 TSK1 TOB kit
+
Clutch kit: ~$700
Timing belt, tensioners, water pump + $$?

Since these engines typically need HG eventually, I could theoretically wait for the HG to start leaking, which will require another engine pull.

If cost wasn't an issue, I agree, doing everything at once makes sense. I have 138K KM, timing belt should be done at 160K KM (100k miles).

 

[webfors]

Thanks for the tips guys, much appreciated.

Looks like I need to dip into the kids disney money to get this all done LOL.

 

[y_p_w]

Originally Posted By: webfors


Looks like a release bearing needs to be replaced, which requires the transmission, or engine, be dropped/hoisted. It's a bloody $60 part, that if not replaced will eventually score/damage the input shaft/snout.

The consensus is to do a clutch job at the same time due to the effort to get in there, and I do have approximately 85k miles.

I busted reverse on my 2004 WRX. Mechanic said he'd never seen anything like it before, as one tooth sheared clean off and was stuck to the magnetic drain bolt and other teeth were cracked/bent. He said straight gears almost never break. I'd simply forgotten to take it out of reverse and stalled. I'm sure it's happened millions of times to drivers, but without reverse breaking.

He originally said he'd look for a used transmission but couldn't find one that was cheap. So he rebuilt it with a new gear. While he was there he recommended a new clutch (shifted much better once it was in there). Did the entire job for $2000 including all parts. He's a dealer mechanic who does work on the side; I think he can also get parts cheaper with an employee discount. I've seen his home work area, and he installed a two post lift in a carport.

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: y_p_w
I've seen his home work area, and he installed a two post lift in a carport.


I wish I had a setup like that!

 

[y_p_w]

Originally Posted By: webfors
Originally Posted By: y_p_w
I've seen his home work area, and he installed a two post lift in a carport.


I wish I had a setup like that!

Should be less than $2000, but I'm not sure how secure they need to be. I don't think it's safe to just sink a bunch of bolts in there. I'd think it would require something like long sleeve or rebar buried deep into the ground/foundation.

 

[artificialist]

Don't re-use the old flywheel unless you had a machinist resurface it. The hot spots in the metal will wear out the new friction material. I think the last time I had an automotive machinist resurface a flywheel, it cost $30, and that was for a 1990s Chevy S10. I don't know what resurfacing costs for a Subaru.

Also, a flywheel surfacing machine is totally different from a brake lathe because a brake lathe doesn't handle the hot spots very well. Therefore you must be sure your machinist has a real flywheel resurfacing machine.

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: artificialist
Don't re-use the old flywheel unless you had a machinist resurface it. The hot spots in the metal will wear out the new friction material. I think the last time I had an automotive machinist resurface a flywheel, it cost $30, and that was for a 1990s Chevy S10. I don't know what resurfacing costs for a Subaru.

Also, a flywheel surfacing machine is totally different from a brake lathe because a brake lathe doesn't handle the hot spots very well. Therefore you must be sure your machinist has a real flywheel resurfacing machine.


Agreed. If I do the clutch (most likely) I'll be replacing the flywheel, disk and pressure plate at the same time. The consensus appears to be to go with OEM for an NA Forester.

 

[05LGTLtd]

Are parts that much more in Canada? Clutch kit here is like $350ish from the dealer. For $700 here you can get tsk, flywheel, and clutch kit and probably have some change left over for beer money to bribe a buddy to help out.. Well almost.

 

[webfors]

Local trusted subaru mechanic quoted $900 + tax for the job, but that does not include a new flywheel. Just the pressure plate, disc, release and pilot bearings, new header gaskets and labour. He's the only guy I would trust to do the work if I don't have the time myself. He said he uses Exedy kits as they're identical to OEM.

This is about $350 in parts and $550 in labour. He didn't recommend the TSK unless your quill is damaged, and he doesn't believe mine will be.

If work wasn't slaving me and stealing all my time I wouldn't hesitate to do it myself.

 

[webfors]

What other brand of parts would you guys consider? Exedy receives high praise. Are there others?

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: webfors
What other brand of parts would you guys consider? Exedy receives high praise. Are there others?

I have been told that LuK is good, but I have so little experience with manual transmissions, that I don't know what aftermarket clutches are good and which ones are bad.

 

[webfors]

Luk, Sachs and Exedy appear to be the trusted brands, with Exedy leading the opinions for Subaru OEM replacement. The pricing between the Exedy and Luk/Sachs kits is between $80 and $100. That's a big premium to pay for Exedy.

 

[webfors]

Did some research and rockauto has a LUK clutch kit and Sachs flywheel for $250 with shipping. That's seems a lot more reasonable, so thank you for planting the seed to get me to research more.

For $250, with flywheel, that's a savings of about a $1000... definitely worth my time IMO.

 

[artificialist]

I forgot to mention one thing I was advised. Sometimes when you remove the transmission, you can save a few dollars in the future by replacing the engine rear main seal while doing all that other stuff to your car, even if the seal is still good.

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: artificialist
I forgot to mention one thing I was advised. Sometimes when you remove the transmission, you can save a few dollars in the future by replacing the engine rear main seal while doing all that other stuff to your car, even if the seal is still good.


Excellent advice. I ordered a rear main seal to do just that.