'08 Siverado 4.8...PF48E Motorcraft Alternatives?

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TXCarGeek

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I generally run Motorcraft filters with silicone ADBVs on my vehicles if there's a MC filter that will fit it...great quality for the price. After doing some reading here, it seems like the e-core, ACDelco filters do not have the best reputation. On cold starts, I do sometimes hear some rattle from my 4.8 that goes away quickly enough but is still concerning.

Looking on Rockauto for brands that I would trust, it looks like there's a Wix, Bosch, another Acdelco that is an ultraguard, and a fram ultra. Do any of these have silicone ADBVs? Or better yet, is there a motorcraft filter that will fit on my 4.8 because they're always much cheaper than the other brands? It seems that an FL820S has a thread size of M22-1.50 like what is shown to fit on the 4.8...would that filter fit on there or would it not seal correctly? What about any other motorcraft filters? I know some folks go with Napa gold filters that are usually Wix?

Any other suggestions on what filter to use to cure the occasional cold start rattle?
 
Well, compared specs of the gasket diameter between the two and it's very similar. Seems that bypass valve setting is 8 on the MC and 12 on the Acdelco...would this difference matter? What will happen by going to the lower bypass pressure spec of the MC filter?
 
Not sure if anything changed on the 07+ NNBS styles....but on the 99-07(classic) silverados I always liked the pf61. Much easier to get off than the short ones. If you're wanting to stray away from acdelco, the fram ultra seem pretty stout
 
I have found MC filters among the worst for dry starts, even with Silicone adbv. Fram Ultra fixed it.
 
I've found the exact opposite. Had a Fram on my 4.0 Jeep that I've owned since new once and it rattled like [censored]. I've used Mopar and Motorcraft filters interchangeably most of the time and it has never rattled like that Fram filter. Perhaps the ultras are better, but for the price of the motorcraft, and even the mopar, I'm not going to bother trying anything else on my Jeep.

My Silverado is a different case though...I've had light rattle on cold start and I want to try something different.
 
You should look more into how the filters are built, not just the label/brand. Ultras are a different beast than cheaper ones. They are also cheap to run.

The MC filters are low end Purolators last tome I used them, not the best. There about three times more expensive, you are correct. But you can run them four times as long. So they come out to be cheaper. We have a Lexus that kills filters because the mount is horizontal, directly beneath one of the exhaust headers and behind the cat. I could only get about 2500 miles out of an MC 910S before it would leak down and cause dry starts, the silicone adbv was toast. I can go 20k on a Fram ultra with no problem.

I totally get where you are coming from. I had reasonable fear of Fram orange cans in the past and I used to be very loyal to Motorcraft filters. But things have changed.
 
Originally Posted by TXCarGeek
Have the pf61s been shown to solve cold start rattle? And do they have a silicone adbv?


I can't recall if they have an ADBV. As far as cold start rattle issue, try the Ultra, Napa Gold, or even M1
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by atikovi
I use that pf48e on my 6.0. Last time it sat 2 months before starting it and it was as quiet as if last started yesterday.

I would say that is the test to pass. I have a similar anecdote but a little over 1 week. 2004 Ford Ranger 4L V6 sat for 8 days in the airport parking lot. I fully expected the STP S2 would not hold but the truck started up noise free. I have had WIX 51372 cause startup rattle sitting for 5 days. So, what was different besides the filters? The WIX was with a synthetic blend such as Motorcraft SB 5W30 or MaxLife SB 5W30. I was using Valvoline Advanced Full Synthetic DEXOS 1G2 5W30 with the STP S2. This Ford engine seems to shear down conventional or synthetic blend oils relatively fast. In my case observed startup rattle follows the oil and filter combo.
grin2.gif
 
Between the two, I'd rather have the Delco over the MC since they TEAR all the time! Run a Wix or Fram if you want superb quality and a silicon valve.
 
NAPA Gold (Wix) has a silicone valve. The # is 7060 for the short or 7045 for the long.
 
Originally Posted by Oro_O
You should look more into how the filters are built, not just the label/brand. Ultras are a different beast than cheaper ones. They are also cheap to run.

The MC filters are low end Purolators last tome I used them, not the best. There about three times more expensive, you are correct. But you can run them four times as long. So they come out to be cheaper. We have a Lexus that kills filters because the mount is horizontal, directly beneath one of the exhaust headers and behind the cat. I could only get about 2500 miles out of an MC 910S before it would leak down and cause dry starts, the silicone adbv was toast. I can go 20k on a Fram ultra with no problem.

I totally get where you are coming from. I had reasonable fear of Fram orange cans in the past and I used to be very loyal to Motorcraft filters. But things have changed.


I'm fairly well versed with the differences between the Fram ultras and the regular Frams. Just have never had a reason to use them because motorcraft and mopar filters have done just fine for me for the past 20 years. The Silverado is a different story though...the acdelco filter hasn't worked for me so I'm exploring other options.

Do you just not change the filter with the fram ultra?
 
Originally Posted by TXCarGeek
The Silverado is a different story though...the acdelco filter hasn't worked for me so I'm exploring other options.

Do you just not change the filter with the fram ultra?


Yep. Just leave it in. It leaves a fractional part of a pint of dirty oil in, but so does the rest of the engine, in the head, journals, etc. that doesn't drain out even if you t change the filter. I do 7.5k oil changes with Mobil 1 High Mileage on that car, change the filter every 3rd oil change. Tore open the filter the first 15k I tried that; it was clean (posted here the pics). So it leaves a little more dirty oil in vs. a new filter, but just not enough to make a difference. And if it's a PITA filter to change (like on the lexus engine), it's a total win, changing the filter once every year or more vs. every few months.

Now all that said, what the heck engine is in your 08 Silverado? We had an 07 Express van with the 5.3 and it was not at all hard on filters or oil, or had dry starts. Had it a long time, took it from new to ~150k miles.
 
You must be talking about a 1MZ motor...had an ES that I picked up for $275 awhile back. Sold it off to a family friend. Used a 910s filter in it when I changed the oil. Had the valve covers off to fix an oil leak because of the single use valve cover bolts that needed washers...Engine had 228k miles on it, no sludge, and a stack of receipts of work done to it going back to 2011 including oil changes. Something tells me that the 910s is still better than whatever the quicklube places that car had been maintained at would use.

I have the 4.8. Last two oil changes were done at the dealership so it has acdelco full synthetic in it. Guess it's possible that I have a randomly bad filter.
 
yes and yes.

After I posted that I saw you said 4.8 in your OP. I think that's still a vertical mount bottom filter, in a recessed boss? OK filter location and design, There are better but this is not bad. It should not really leak down badly; the filter volume should hold against the relatively minimal pressure from the stacked residual fluid on shut down in the journals above. It would take a really weak adbv to fail against that. Also, heat/engine heat/residual heat should be "OK" on that filter location if it's the same as the 5.3 which I think it is. It's "ok" if not great but not bad.

Try another MC if you want; it's not like it's crazy money. But if not, try a Wix XP, napa gold, or Fram Ultra.
 
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