08 Ford F150, 11,900 PZ 5w20

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OIL PZ5w20

MILES IN USE 11.9k

MILES 21.0k

SAMPLE TAKEN 02/19/11


Code:


Metals (ppm)

Iron 148

Chromium 4

Lead
Copper 10

Tin
Aluminium 15

Nickel
Silver
Titanium
Vanadium


Contaminants (ppm)

Silicon 21

Sodium 27

Potassium 6

Water (%)
Coolant no



Additives (ppm)

Magnesium 134

Calcium 2021

Barium
Phosphorus 843

Zinc 1005

Molybdenum 25

Boron 40



Physical / Chemical Tests (ppm)

Viscosity (cSt 100C) 8.5

Base Number 9gmKOH/g 1.1


Diagnosis
Engine wear rates appear satisfactory for first sample. Silicon level (dirt/sealant material) satisfactory. Water content acceptable. TBN below recommended limit. Viscosity within specified operating range.
Action: Change oil and filter if not already done. Resample at next service interval to monitor and establish wear trend.
 
Iron is a little high this does not look out of line for a engine breaking in though. Give the OCI and engine age this looks good. Would like to see how synthetic would hold up. I do not think synthetic would of done any better. FLAME ON.
 
The oil was changed a 3k, 8k, and 13k, and this one at 24k. The last one (sample) was done by a local Penziol lube place, and the receipt says: '5w20 PENNZOIL SEMI-SYNTHE PZ5W20'

The first two were done by a Ford Dealer, using Motorcraft 5w20. I expected it to hold up better, and I'm still tempted to try the same test using Motorcraft 5w20.

I though the person who wrote up my ticket said the oil would be in bottles, and the person who did the change pulled a hose from the ceiling to fill the oil. That left me suspect that I got 5w30 conventional, but I don't know how to tell either way.

There is some Auto-RX in there, but not sure if that will impact anything.
 
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Why do you you Auto-Rx in such a new engine? I do not see a point in using Auto-Rx, MMO, with SN oils as long as you change the oil. Also cutback your next run to 8K I think it would look better.
 
If you continue to use this same oil again.....I would not exceed 10,000 OCI's....just to be in a 'safe' zone (based on the 1.1 TBN).

IMO....1.1 TBN.....is just to close for comfort.

BTW....what filter did you use?
______________________________________
03' Ford Focus (2.3L Duratec)
M1 5w20EP / OCI: 1 year or 10K +/-
Filter: M1 102 EP
 
What lube center in Milwaukee told you it was coming out of a bottle but they pulled a hose real instead? And who told you it was a Pennzoil synthetic blend?
 
Exactly, I'll never understand anyone who pushes their oil to the very limits. You can do a DIY oil change for about $30, that's pretty cheap peace of mind.

OP, I'd hate to see you end up with this guy's problem, yikes. This was a Ford truck as well.

http://www.f150forum.com/f4/you-want-see-engine-sludge-74045/

______________________________________
03' Ford Focus (2.3L Duratec)
M1 5w20EP / OCI: 1 year or 10K +/-
Filter: M1 102 EP [/quote]
 
I put in a maintenance amount of Auto-RX. I've been buying it by the case, and sharing it with my friends, so there was plenty on the shelve at the time.

I'll be putting on less miles this year, maybe 8k are in order. I really expected this engine with a 7 quart sump could easily do an annual oil change. I don't drive the truck every day.

I took it to the Wash-N-Lube place on 107th and Layton. It was January, and I needed a wash and an oil change, and I didn't have much time.
 
Don't know why the Wash-N-Lube used a Pennzoil filter since they are a Valvoline Instant Oil Change place. If they grabbed a hose reel, more than likely what you have here is Valvoline 5W-20, not Pennzoil. The lube center is owned by Great Lakes Lubes which owns almost every Valvoline lube center in Wisconsin and Northern Illinois.


Wash-N-Lubes - Milwaukee
 
With that many OCIs, I'd say wear=in should be down by now. Engines are finished fairly well these days, and so any "break in" should have been gone by 24k miles after 5 OCIs.

I'm a big fan of using any lube up to it's limit, but I think this might have gone a bit too far. I doubt any real "damage" was done, but I'd cut the OCI back a bit until you see Fe come down in line with the other items.

As for the oil, I cannot comment on the brand, but you typically get "bulk" oil unless you pay for an upgrade (and even then you risk some goofball putting in the wrong stuff anyway). I suspect you got a fleet-type 5w-xx dino oil.
 
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Why do you you Auto-Rx in such a new engine? I do not see a point in using Auto-Rx, MMO, with SN oils as long as you change the oil. Also cutback your next run to 8K I think it would look better.


Because ARX has other benefits besides cleaning.
 
Greencrew: I'd wonder first what the driving cycle is like. That can really eat up an oil. It has a big influence on the life of any oil. Also, what filter? And did you sample any of the other OCIs? If so, let's see 'em.

My opinion- you went way too far on this oil in your circumstance. If it was just PYB conventional (or some bulk no-name) then it was way, way too far, even under ideal circumstances. Even a semi-syn isn't often up to 10+K OCIs. A conventional... very seldom. Those extra-long OCIs are very much subject to conditions (one size does not fit all, regardless of what oil you use and it's accompanying ad hype) and you most often need to go with the highest quality oils and upgrade your filtration. I would advise dialing back to about 7-8K with a semi-syn, then UOA. Adjust until you find the sweet spot.

Also, get a virgin sample of the oil and have it tested. That way you know what you got. More importantly, you have a baseline sample to compare to the used one. Obviously, you need to keep the same lab and oil so you can compare apples to apples. While it's most accurate to do that every time you UOA, in practice, the formulations don't change that much so you could use the virgin oil for comparison for several UOAs.

148 iron is pretty high but I think it's a combination of going over what the oil can handle, a fairly new engine and perhaps "average" filtration. My '05 5.4L was 28ppm @ about 20K miles, with a 7.5K OCI... with a better oil because the TBM of the RP 5W20 was still 10. I'm close to a 10K test on my truck and will see.
 
I'd try a shorter OCI and leave the A-Rx out. I bet there is still a bit of break-in metal, but most should be out by now. I'd also use bottled oil that I bought from a store, and change it myself. That will be one less varibale and guarantees that you'll be getting what you pay for.
 
These results mirror mine (both my 4.6L and 5.4L) using Motorcraft 5-20. The switch to M1 5-20 did not help.

However, the switch to 10-30 M1 did. Further improvement going to M1 5-40 TDT.
 
Thanks, I appreciate your opinions. I really didn't plan this out, I just got busy with work and travel, which made me late on my oil change, and since I had a couple kits I decided to do an analysis, and then it snowed and snowed again. The longer I delayed it, the more I wanted to see the results. Analysis at 7-8k just does not tweak my interest.

I wanted to verify that I could do an annual oil change. I did analysis on my Deere garden tractor after a full year, and it was fine. I've driven 14k and 21k on my last truck and that was fine also. I think the tractor's oil lasted longer because it gets a few starts, then runs for an hour or two, and runs M1. My last truck had a by-pass and Amsoil, where I did filter changes every six months. I know I have none of those advantages on this truck, but 7 quarts is a lot of oil, and additive pack. That was my reasoning. Live an learn.

I'd like to know what it's going to take to accomplish an annual oil change. Do I have to drive less than 8k? Change the oil filter at six months? Walk if the trip is less than 2 miles?

What would I try next? 12 months at 8k?
 
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