07 Nissan Titan 5.6 VDKe PP 5W30 WITH M1 filter

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AFmedic

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Alright folks, I got my oil report back with spectacular results. I know it was drained with low mileage but my commute is low and oil was in there for 4 months. I like to do 3 changes a year. The oil filter was a Mobil one m110. Air Filter is an AEF brute Force with Prefilter on it. I know the copper came down which is good but I'm wondering if it's somewhat elevated becasue I only use Chevron with Techron in it. It's only had 2-3 tanks full of non Chevron it's life. I know when you had fuel injector cleaner it can skew your results. I have never dumped any cleaner in it. Looks like the Titan likes this combo and it's probably what I will stick with. Feel free to comment
First cloumn is 20,880 motor with 3,228 on oil
Second cloumn is 9,308 on motor with 3,096 on oil

Alum 2,3
Chrom 0,0
Iron 5,12
Copper 5,8
Lead 2,2
Tin 0,0
Moly 50,61
Nickel 0,1
Manganese 0,1
Silver 0,0
Titanium 0,0
Potassium 1,0
Boron 41,48
Silicon 10,15
Sodium 1,2
Calcium 2903, 3,038
Magneisum 10,14
Phosphorus 714, 699
Zinc 825, 842
Barium 0,0
Sus Viscosity 60.4, 56.3
cst Viscosity 10.34, 9.16
Flashpoint 410, 420
fuel antifreeze 0,0
Water 0,0
insolubles .2, .2
 
Did you mean AEM for the intake and filter? Is it a dryflow w/ prefilter or an old oiled style filter?
 
Yep sorry meant AEM and it's a dry filter with sock slip over prefilter. Does anyone think using the Cevron with Techron long term has any affect?
 
I had a Honda service rep tell me that It really does work. I usually run Shell because they claim more derergents. Car runs fine on EXXon which,oddly, is not top tier.
 
Originally Posted By: AFmedic
Does anyone think using the Cevron with Techron long term has any affect?

Less need for fuel injector cleaners and a generally cleaner engine is what they say, and some people claim better mpg's with it.
 
Techron should not affect copper at all iti s an amines based cleaner if I recall properly?! M1 oil filters have traditionally taken a dim view by Terry and Myself and other's!! For the most part filters like M1,Pure 1, and other that are packed with filter media and filter down to lower micron rating tend to easily go into bypass on cold starts and under acceleration when the oil is still thick after starting it up. This constant cycling into bypass interferes with oil flow and can cause some increased wear! I find that it is almost worthless to do any serious filtering on a full flow circuit if you want to do some serious filtering it is best to have a system that use's a good full flow filter and a good bypass filter. In a full flow circuit flow is the most important feature not filtration.

Their was a time when gasoline engines where horrifically dirty and had all kinds of junk in the oil. Today most of that has changed and in many case's people can get great results with nothing more then a screen. Insolubles are the main thing I have to worry about baring a catastrophic parts failure like a cam shaft coming apart.

So I bet if you used either a cheap Walmart oil filter or a K&N oil filter that is biased towards flow your numbers would either improve or stay the same. My point is that you could easily use the cheapest filters ie SuperTech and get the same or better results from above. The K&N oil filter I am sure would do better.

The origanal Bob for "Bob is the oil guy" did some testing where they ran his Ford Escort with and with out an oil filter and if I recall correctly the results where better when no filter was run.This is why short of bypass filtration which I firmly believe in you would never catch me spending big money on an oil filter as it is a waste of money most of the time!
 
Good point. I know 5 ppm is low I used to get the filter from WM for 9 bucks but since they quit carrying them I switched to Napa gold. I will resample in 10k and see where it's at. Thanks
 
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning


So I bet if you used either a cheap Walmart oil filter or a K&N oil filter that is biased towards flow your numbers would either improve or stay the same. My point is that you could easily use the cheapest filters ie SuperTech and get the same or better results from above. The K&N oil filter I am sure would do better.



I hate to tell you. The Mobil 1 and K&N filter are one in the same!
 
Originally Posted By: Finklejag
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning


So I bet if you used either a cheap Walmart oil filter or a K&N oil filter that is biased towards flow your numbers would either improve or stay the same. My point is that you could easily use the cheapest filters ie SuperTech and get the same or better results from above. The K&N oil filter I am sure would do better.



I hate to tell you. The Mobil 1 and K&N filter are one in the same!


They have different media.
 
Do you use a block heater on this? For a short commute you show like a longer range commuter. Flash point is almost virgin. No signs of fatigue at all. Solid visc.

I'd both agree and object to John Browning's remarks on filtration. Normally someone dumping it after so few miles can't take advantage of higher levels of filtration. They're dumping the sump often enough that they're just not there in significant numbers. OTOH, you would normally be loaded with warm up byproducts where the filter would be shot, so a better filter may be beneficial (with some massaging in concept)......

...but you're not showing any of the usual suspects of short trip usage.
 
No pan heater, I have a stick on style but have not used it in 9 months. Just jump in drive 5 miles, get out and repeat ont the way home. Some longer trips on the weekend. Some of it is Drive 2 miles drop off son, drive 2 more miles and drop off other one and then 1 mile to work.
 
No they are not the same. THe K&N use's different media that does not filter as well! It is biased toward flow not filtration. They also used to have different anti drain back valve material and in some cases even the design was different. The case on the K&N is thicker gage material then the rest of the champions and they used to use a double crimp instead of the single rolled crimp the rest of the line used. Then you have that stamped steel nut like piece that is spot welded on the end. So far I have yet to see a nut on the end of the M1 filters. Years ago I did quite a bit of experimenting with M1,Pure 1,Toyota [censored]. filters,K&N and all the usually suspects on the shelfs today. Just because champion labs make a filter for many different companies does not mean each version is a clone of the other! Back in 2003 I ran into 3-4 different media and 2-3 different thickness's when cutting open new filter just on models made by Champion.

Calling the K&N and M1 filter the same would be like Calling an Amsoil filter and a Baldwin filter the same! Back when Baldwin made most of their filters for them which I have no clue if that is still the case they had some similar products. Baldwin built to the specification that Amsoil wanted. So often even if the design was the same the media was different and the amount of media in the can was like wise different.Like all large companies filter manufactures will build you what ever you want and to what ever price point you will pay. Puralator makes the MC 820's and they are not at all like any one of the equivalent Puralators. In building what Ford wanted they ended up using parts and pieces from their entire line up of filters on that one design.

Put yet another way!!! Exxon Mobil used to supplie Amsoil and Castrol and many other's with the bulk of the PAO they used in makeing oils for automotive purpose's. So does that mean that Amsoil is really M1 oil or that Castrol was M1 oil in a different bottle? No of course not!
 
The K&N is different, I forgot it had the nut. The can and media look identical.

M1vsKN.jpg


DSC06335.jpg


DSC06386.jpg


DSC06385.jpg



Back to to subject now.
 
Interesting that you are able to gauge the filtering ability between lets say a 10-micron nominal media and one that is 20-micron with your bare eyes. Must be Superman.
 
Originally Posted By: FZ1
Sorry,you missed the point in the 3 posts preceding your comment.


I don't think so.
 
They used to be different designs!!! Just goes to show things change all the time. Last time I cut the two open was 2003 and they had completely different internals. Is the can for K&N still made from heavier gage sheet metal or have they changed that as well? The K&N and M1 had different polymer materials for the seals and anti drain back valve and the spring was different between them as well! The burst pressures where different the crimps where different and the media inside them was not the same color either. In fact the M1 had Teflon on the seal that mates witht he oil adapter and the K&N did not have this either. So all this shows is that they have gone to common design to cut cost. If you look back through the oil filter section you should also be able to find difference in bubble test's done to the filtration media. Even then OEM product material had clearly different mircron beta test numbers back then because they used two different media?

Since my eye's are not micro calibrated and neither are yours the most we can say is that for the two filters you cut open the design visually looks identical and the media is the same color? Have you measured the thickness of the medial and the square footage? I might have to fire off a question to champion labs concerning the media after I look at their web sites for these products and see if the beta numbers match???

P.S. If I pour two quarts of oil in two different glass beaker if they have the same color and smell does that mean they are the same? Just checking because with out knowing for sure if the media is the same in every area we cannot call them the same! The media make up is the most important thing in the entire can!


When I cut open my K&N back in 2003 it looked like the Power Sport model shown on K&N web site only mine was not crome. http://www.knfilters.com/oilfilter.htm This is how I remember them looking. Now that curent K&N gold as they call it does look exactly like the same construction used for the M1! One problem though is K&N sites claims that their media is cellulose bound by resin. The last time I read an M1 oil filter brouchure they claimed their media was synthetic glass media. Again I know this has been a while ago. SO has M1 gone to plain cellulose with polyphenlic resin bonding material as well???


On this page M1 claims Synthetic Media blend https://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/motoroil/other_products/mobil_1_extended_performance_oil_filters.aspx!!!! So they cannot have the same media if one is nothing but Nitrocellulose and the other is a synthetic media blend? Nitrocellulose is not even close to synthetic!
 
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