07 4Runner, Valv HM Synth 5W30 D1G2, 4129mi

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Engine is the 1GR-FE 4.0L V6, 209K miles, ~30K miles since I replaced the timing chains, sprockets, guides, and tensioners last year (see wear metals increase at the subsequent 184K lab test) due to original owner poor oil change habits and a chronic P0016 error code caused by the elongated main chain.

Oil was Valvoline Synthetic High Mileage w/ MaxLife 5W-30 D1G2 label, the new jug cap design. Current fill is the 10W-30 version, no D1G2.

I've skipped a few OCIs with Blackstone as shown in the history. Fills since the 178K mile oil change were Pennz Platinum-HM 5W-30 D1G2. I liked what I saw of Valvoline's new additive package now including moly, figured I'd give it a try. Not disappointed. Early OCI due to upcoming series of weekend road trips for kid soccer.

074Runner_Oil_May2019.jpg
 
Thanks for posting. The new timing components really bumped your copper up on the previous report. I have a new vehicle and the second OC UOA still showed a lot of copper. We all know it takes a while to settle out but many of us were guessing what engine components would be responsible for that. It looks like timing gears, chains and tensioners might be involved.

Thanks again...

Ray
 
Originally Posted by RayCJ

Thanks for posting. The new timing components really bumped your copper up on the previous report. I have a new vehicle and the second OC UOA still showed a lot of copper. We all know it takes a while to settle out but many of us were guessing what engine components would be responsible for that. It looks like timing gears, chains and tensioners might be involved.

Thanks again...

Ray


The idler sprocket has a yellow/gold bushing, and the crank sprocket has a yellow/gold facing on the oil pump thrust surface. Both were new.

There was another oil change before the one I sent, probably had even more Cu and Fe in it from the new pieces.
 
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Originally Posted by crainholio
Originally Posted by RayCJ

Thanks for posting. The new timing components really bumped your copper up on the previous report. I have a new vehicle and the second OC UOA still showed a lot of copper. We all know it takes a while to settle out but many of us were guessing what engine components would be responsible for that. It looks like timing gears, chains and tensioners might be involved.

Thanks again...

Ray


The idler sprocket has a yellow/gold bushing, and the crank sprocket has a yellow/gold facing on the oil pump thrust surface. Both were new.

There was another oil change before the one I sent, probably had even more Cu and Fe in it from the new pieces.



Much thanks for the follow-up!


Ray
 
Looks good!

Originally Posted by Patrick0525
How terrible was the previous owner's OCI? Does the engine consume any oil between OCI?


Yeah that neglect is a shame on such a low-wearing and dependable engine...should be good to go now under your care!
 
Originally Posted by Patrick0525
How terrible was the previous owner's OCI? Does the engine consume any oil between OCI?


According to CarFax and Toyota online records, oil change intervals of 20-25K miles, with one in the 30K range...most at "Mister Good Lube". Toyota records show it set P0016 at around 95K miles and the dealership quoted him a replacement engine due to sludge. He kept driving and neglecting it until it wouldn't pass state inspection, then sold it on craigslist with 164K miles on the odometer...to me.

It uses no oil, leakdown test shows all cylinders at 94psi with 100psi feed at TDC. Sludge under the valve covers and timing cover wasn't very bad, just a light layer on top of the non-moving parts like bearing caps.

With all new Toyota timing components and 5K mile OCIs it runs very well, gets 21-23mpg on highway trips, but it's still horking up sludge as shown in the oil filter cuts posted elsewhere here. Might drop the oil sump this Summer and clean it out.
 
horking
crackmeup2.gif




Thanks; I shake my head - 20-25k at a quik lube....guy should be taken into a back alley.

I figure you are keeping a new filter in there at each interval...
 
Go back to this D1G2 HM 5W30 next time. Let it puke more sludge every 4.1k, a little at a time.
Don't change anything and thanks for letting us know this 5W30 has plenty Titanium in the blend also.

I've become really impressed with Valvoline's new Advanced lineup of oils. I'll try some next in my newish Hyundai Santa Fe.
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Originally Posted by JLTD

Thanks; I shake my head - 20-25k at a quik lube....guy should be taken into a back alley.

I figure you are keeping a new filter in there at each interval...


He sold me a ~$12K vehicle for a bit more than half that, $9K asking price and $7K sale price. If he'd had the oil changed at 10K mile intervals at $50 per change, it would have been ($50/change * 16 changes) = $800 in maintenance to get an extra $5K at sale.

I expected to swap in a salvage yard engine based on what I'd read in the Toyota records, but w/ the new timing set it's running nicely. Pic attached shows under the bank 1 valve cover at the time.

It gets a new Toyota YZZD3 oil filter every change, with a FilterMag and extra neodymium magnets stuck to it.

4Runner_head_1.JPG


4Runner_head_3.JPG
 
All things considered, looks pretty good! Agree with Triple_Se7en, just keep changing frequently and the additives and filter will do the job.
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en

I've become really impressed with Valvoline's new Advanced lineup of oils. I'll try some next in my newish Hyundai Santa Fe.
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Of note, the High Mileage jugs don't say "Advanced" on them: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvolin...-30-Motor-Oil-Easy-Pour-5-Quart/23636909

I'll be pulling a specimen of this 10W-30 high mileage later this Summer when it hits 5K mile oil change, interested to see how it compares to the D1G2 5W-30.
 
By any chance, have you taken apart any of the recent old filters to check their condition? If so, give us a play-by-play if you don't mind.

I'm glad the engine is surviving for you.


Ray
 
Originally Posted by RayCJ

By any chance, have you taken apart any of the recent old filters to check their condition? If so, give us a play-by-play if you don't mind.


Pics attached from early 2018, a few months after I bought the truck. Most recent one had much less sludge in the can and in the pleats, but still more than I'm used to seeing.

4Runner_Filter_JAN2018.jpg


IMG_1549.JPG
 
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Update: my engine does not seem to like this oil, clicking valvetrain noise at hot idle. Doesn't make sense, as the 1GR-FE has no hydraulic lifters or lash adjusters...but the noise is there. Going back to Pennzoil High Mileage in either the PP or conventional flavor next oil change. Will collect a specimen of this Valvoline 10W-30 Synthetic High Mileage w/ MaxLife at that time for Blackstone analysis.

Caveat: this engine was horribly neglected for 164K miles by the original owner, and should not be used as any basis for evaluation of any motor oil's performance or quality.
 
Originally Posted by crainholio
Update: my engine does not seem to like this oil, clicking valvetrain noise at hot idle. Doesn't make sense, as the 1GR-FE has no hydraulic lifters or lash adjusters...but the noise is there. Going back to Pennzoil High Mileage in either the PP or conventional flavor next oil change. Will collect a specimen of this Valvoline 10W-30 Synthetic High Mileage w/ MaxLife at that time for Blackstone analysis.

Caveat: this engine was horribly neglected for 164K miles by the original owner, and should not be used as any basis for evaluation of any motor oil's performance or quality.


Drained today at ~2.3K miles, flushed the pan, and conventional Pennzoil High Mileage 5W-30 went in along w/ a new Toyota YZZD3 oil filter. Valvetrain ticking is gone again. I collected a specimen and will ship to Blackstone last week. This engine has previously been quiet with Pennzoil HM, PP HM, and QSUD...no idea why Valvoline synthetic HM made it ticky.
 
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