06 Polaris Sportsman 700 36HRS/224HRS

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USAFACE

USAFACE

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Hello everyone this UOA is on my 06 Polaris Sportsman 700 there a 2 UOA posted since I just joined the site. History on the 4 wheeler is I bought it with a blown crankshaft, I rebuild the whole thing by that I mean I put a new crankshaft in it, new bearings in the whole bottom end and all new gaskets, new piston rings, engine showed no abnormal signs of wear, never burns oil ect. These polaris engines are push rod type,well at least the 600,700 and 800 are. The 4 wheeler is snorkeled and sees lots of heavy mud/water/dust trail ect. riding. It has a UNI 2 stage foam filter that is oiled with PJ1 foam filter treatment spray. These UOA results have me stumped because of the abnormal wear numbers. The quad runs like a top, not issues at all since rebuild. Plus I have no other similar 4 wheeler UOA to go off of. Please help! Thanks, Cody

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Amsoil 0w-40 Powersports, WIX/NAPA GOLD on BOTH

DATE TAKEN 1/26/13, 1/2/2011

HOURS 224, 188

FLUID RUN TIME 36, 38

Aluminum 86 167

Chromium 19 34

Iron 102 164

Copper 15 15

Lead 9 14

Tin 3 3

Moly 43 49

Nickel 23 49

Manganese 1 1

Silver 0 0

Titanium 3 6

Potassium 8 0

Boron 4 12

Silicon 213 375

Sodium 20 51

Calcium 2639 2537

Magnesium 18 21

Phosphorus 1013 924

Zinc 1142 1039

Barium 1 1



Visc 100 C 11.1 11.6

Water Negative, Trace

Anti- Freeze Negative, Negative

Oxidation 0.04, 0.04

Nitration 0.13, 0.09

Sulfation 0, 0
 
Also the analyst notes said I am showing signs of a sever dirt leak causing abnormal wear. Check for air intake leak. Which I know I don't have.
 
Originally Posted By: USAFACE
Cody

Amsoil 0w-40 Powersports, WIX/NAPA GOLD on BOTH
DATE TAKEN 1/26/13, 1/2/2011
HOURS 224, 188
FLUID RUN TIME 36, 38
Aluminum 86 167
Chromium 19 34
Iron 102 164
Copper 15 15
Lead 9 14
Tin 3 3
Moly 43 49
Nickel 23 49
Manganese 1 1
Silver 0 0
Titanium 3 6
Potassium 8 0
Boron 4 12
Silicon 213 375
Sodium 20 51
Calcium 2639 2537
Magnesium 18 21
Phosphorus 1013 924
Zinc 1142 1039
Barium 1 1

Visc 100 C 11.1 11.6


HOLY SANDPAPER BATMAN!
silicon of 375 and 213!!! i'd say you were high if it was 21...213 is WAY up there. 375 is a sand pit in your crankcase! jeeez.

let's talk about just this 1st.
1) could be gastket sealers leaching. but i really doubt it at this point.
2) spray on oil? o m g! dude, time for you to learn how to put on rubber gloves and do it right. and filter filters. even if the intake track is sealed you could be getting dirt through the filter. maxima fft or or no-toil or rockoil or even bel-ray foam.
3) carb vent lines? if you have these you are sucking up dust. pull the top plate on the carb and see how much is on the underside of this. if efi, well forget this step.
4) intake track to airbox seal (a factor seal that you dont usually change or see)
5) intake manifold split or cracked or not sealing

all of the other wear metals are so far off the chart that its stupid to comment on until sand is under control.

your 11.1 is a 30wt. actually pretty darn good for 36hrs.
but forget the amsoil for a few changes. use just shell rotella t 15w40 and change at 5hrs to keep the silicon lower and quit grinding your motor.
 
Last edited:
maybe a pr-filter would help, or a DRY filter. I'm not an oiled filter fan !
 
Originally Posted By: wsar10
maybe a pr-filter would help, or a DRY filter. I'm not an oiled filter fan !


you must not know much about dirt then
 
The best way to check for air leaks is with starting fluid. Let the engine idle and spray starter fluid on the snorkel line, if it revs up, you got a leak. I check for air leaks this way. The Polaris Sportsman have a much better air filter system on them than the earlier models. I suspect the snorkel system. How about the breather hose, did you make sure you re-connected it tight. Its easy enough to forget about hooking it back up, since its under everything. So curious, what did you have in rebuilding that motor? I heard they are pretty much disposable, due to the high cost of a rebuild. I have a 700 and I always think that if I ever blow, it, its gonna be junk.
 
I have cleaned the UNI filter the proper way and re oiled it, pre filter and inner both. I have the carb vents plugged except one and that one is routed up to the handle bars. I know on this 4 wheeler if you have a abnormal air leak it would not run properly, it won't even idle good if the air box lid it off, but put it on and close it up, perfect. I have also change the oil to 5w-40 Rotella T6 with a WIX filter again.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
The best way to check for air leaks is with starting fluid. Let the engine idle and spray starter fluid on the snorkel line, if it revs up, you got a leak. I check for air leaks this way. The Polaris Sportsman have a much better air filter system on them than the earlier models. I suspect the snorkel system. How about the breather hose, did you make sure you re-connected it tight. Its easy enough to forget about hooking it back up, since its under everything. So curious, what did you have in rebuilding that motor? I heard they are pretty much disposable, due to the high cost of a rebuild. I have a 700 and I always think that if I ever blow, it, its gonna be junk.


I did re-connect all hoses, I will try the starter fluid test, can't hurt. The original owner burned up one of the crank shaft bearings. I spent about $700 total in the rebuild including bearings ect. I have since found out that in the 700's you can also throw in an aftermarket 800 crank shaft instead and get more power and usually find those for about $400
 
yeah that's it...........
I know even less about filter oil residue building up in and on all intake and carb related parts, a complete build up of filth that you may not necessarily see creating an above average insoluble content in a UOA....
 
I usually use UNI filters with good results, but in your case I might recommend going back to the stock paper filer with an outerwears pre-filter. That might rule-out any issues with an oiled filter.
 
Originally Posted By: ccdhowell
I usually use UNI filters with good results, but in your case I might recommend going back to the stock paper filer with an outerwears pre-filter. That might rule-out any issues with an oiled filter.


I wish AMSOIL made OE replacement air filters for quads....... I run there dry filters on every application I can, alot of quads and bikes that we have around our property I can usually get one of there cone filters to fit but it would just be nice if they made OE replacements.
 
Originally Posted By: ccdhowell
I usually use UNI filters with good results, but in your case I might recommend going back to the stock paper filer with an outerwears pre-filter. That might rule-out any issues with an oiled filter.


Yeah I think I will try that also. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
Originally Posted By: wsar10
Originally Posted By: ccdhowell
I usually use UNI filters with good results, but in your case I might recommend going back to the stock paper filer with an outerwears pre-filter. That might rule-out any issues with an oiled filter.


I wish AMSOIL made OE replacement air filters for quads....... I run there dry filters on every application I can, alot of quads and bikes that we have around our property I can usually get one of there cone filters to fit but it would just be nice if they made OE replacements.


True I use the Amsoil air filter in my truck.
 
I just added a Yamaha Warrior 350 to my garage and I threw a UNI on it but left it dry with a pre-filter....... I'm not sure if this is the best decision or not, but I just absolutely refuse to use oiled filters. The warrior airbox is a stupid f******* setup and has limited options. most Polaris stuff that I have or have had I used just a regular "clamp on" cone filter from AMSOIL.

I used to use K&N on everything until I found BITOG and did a few UOA's, I than had to make the decision to drop a tad bit of performance for the sake o a cleaner throttle body and motor oil, I'm a JEEP guy and the IAC valve id TB mounted, and ANY JEEP motor is notorious for getting a grime build up on the IAC and than causing poor idle situations, I have cut my TB cleaning efforts in half since doing away with oiled filters.
 
Originally Posted By: wsar10
I just added a Yamaha Warrior 350 to my garage and I threw a UNI on it but left it dry with a pre-filter....... I'm not sure if this is the best decision or not, but I just absolutely refuse to use oiled filters. The warrior airbox is a stupid f******* setup and has limited options. most Polaris stuff that I have or have had I used just a regular "clamp on" cone filter from AMSOIL.

I used to use K&N on everything until I found BITOG and did a few UOA's, I than had to make the decision to drop a tad bit of performance for the sake o a cleaner throttle body and motor oil, I'm a JEEP guy and the IAC valve id TB mounted, and ANY JEEP motor is notorious for getting a grime build up on the IAC and than causing poor idle situations, I have cut my TB cleaning efforts in half since doing away with oiled filters.


I am really considering just putting the OEM polaris paper filter with the pre sleeve. The only thing is I have gone in really deep water from time to time and got water in my air box, with the paper filter I am afraid it would be trash after that.
 
IF you can use a clamp on filter, just measure the diameter of the intake in side the air box and look for an AMSOIL filter that size.....

FWIW;
I have a JEEP that is a "trail JEEP" (no doors no carpet kind of toy) and I have taken on water through a broken snorkel tube and saturated my AMSOIL filter with water, I dried the biggest part of it with shop air than let the sun finish it off, it didn't physically destroy the filter, but I do not know if it affected its filtering capability...
 
Originally Posted By: USAFACE
Amsoil's website does not seem to show to many air filter types that could work.


http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/air/amsoil-ea-universal-air-induction-filters/?page=%2fstorefront%2feaau.aspx

maybe this will help
 
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