'06 Infiniti G35 Coupe - 0w30 or 0W40?

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If you had an '06 G35 coupe and had to choose between Amsoil 0W30 2K and Mobil 1 0W40 European, which way would you go? Would the Amsoil be slightly on the light side for this engine, or not. Car is mostly a daily commuter, with very few weekly highway miles.
 
Manufacturer of the VQ engine recommends 5W-30 under all conditions, but it also allows for 10W-30 or 10W-40 under warmer ambient temperatures.

UOAs show lower elemental wear when using thick 30-weight oils or thin 40-weight oils.

Many owners use GC or M1 0W-40 with great results.

After I finish my Auto-Rx rinse in my VQ (Rotella T 5W-40) I'll be switching to GC. My stash of green should last for three years, so by then we'll know if the gold is just as good or if I'll be using M1 0W-40.
 
My fiance just bought a used 03' G35 Coupe and I've been trying to decide what oil to use in it. My inclination is to use GC, but the part in the owner's manual saying "Infinity recommends mineral oils" has me a little concerned. I want to know if they say that because of the seal materials used or some dumb reason like mineral oil is cheaper and they've found it works well. Do you know why they recommend mineral oils?
Edit: Yes, I've seen good UOAs with GC already which gives me hope.
 
My '06 manual has no reference to use of only mineral oils. Maybe that no longer applies.
 
There is no need for synthetic in ANY engine unless:

A) OEM recommends it (which it doesn't in this case)
B) You will be racing this car. (Unknown)
C) The intended service interval requires it. (Obviously not, as the maximum OCI allowed under warranty is 7500 miles...dino can achieve that drain interval)

Thus, use any top-tier dino or blend of the correct viscosity (10W30 would be fine)and change it every 5000-7000 miles if your trips are reasonably long (>10 miles in length) and use oil analysis periodically.
 
go with the amsoil and stick to a 30 weight.

The amsoil will tend to thicken anyways which will cover both your needs if you catch my drift.
 
A couple points

MW - some dinos aren't looking too good at 7500 miles. I wouldn't base your full recommendations against synthetic oil on a few UOA's.

BlazerLT - I have yet to see the 5W-30 XL thicken, I'm thinking this one will easily hold grade.
 
From what I've read on the boards, stick to a high quality synthetic like:

Amsoil
Motul 8100 E-tech
Pentosynth

I know they are more expensive than what you can get at a local auto store, but personally I like the piece of mind knowing a high quality oil is protecting my vehicle. When you own a hihger end vehicle, what's $50-100 for an oil change anyway...not much, relatively speaking.

I just started using Motul 8100 E-tech 0W-40 and so far so good. Cost me $7/L through a group buy. The key was, no shipping since I picked it up locally.
 
Pable, I am talking about the 0w30 which in several UOA's it has shown a thickening trend right up into the lower 40 weight region over time.
 
quote:

MW - some dinos aren't looking too good at 7500 miles. I wouldn't base your full recommendations against synthetic oil on a few UOA's.

Please back up the statement you made...the Mobil Clean 5000 10W30 that was run in Chinee's G35 for 4500 miles did reasonably well wear wise and could've easily gone for another 2-3K...TBN was 1.9 (IIRC) with the wacked Blackstone scale...TBN would've been in the 4-4.5 range with the D-4739 protocol...which uses a lower limit of 1.0.

Other API SM oils have done well even in stressful applications such as dkryan's 05 3.3L Toyo...

I know you're going to mention the 3.4L Impala that used Clean 5000 for 7400 miles and showed slightly elevated wear metals...after all, not all engines will wear as nicely especially during the wear-in period, but the wear metals from that UOA were definitely within acceptable ranges.
 
"Infinity recommends mineral oils"

I have explained my understanding of this before:

EPA requires manufacturers to recommend whatever oil they use to certify the engine (mileage and/or emissions). Therefore they will recommend mineral based oils in the manual.

This should in no way be construed as recommending against synthetic use.

Mike
 
MW - I wouldn't use dino in other cars as an example. I think the G35 engine is reasonably hard on motor oil. Enough to warrant synthetic oil.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002688;p=1

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=003031#000000

To bad some other ones lost their links with time.

A full 7500 mile OCI on a dino oil in the G35 would be a big stretch. I don't think "reasonably well" is good enough
smile.gif
 
Pabs,
I looked at those UOAs you mentioned...the Pennzoil was a SL formulation and the Clean 5000 was obviously a SM formulation...the Clean 5000 stayed in grade better and delivered longer service life.

I don't understand why you're saying that 7500 would be a stretch...oil was in good shape flashpoint, TBN, vis, and insolubles wise with the Clean 5000...and could've made it another 2-3000 miles. Yes the TBN was 1.9...but this is on the wacked Blacksone scale, and like I said, would be reading >4 with the standard ASTM D-4739 protocol OAI uses; IIRC, cut-off for ASTM D-4739 is 1.0.

Explain to me what benefits synthetic oils would bring to this application under normal, daily driving conditions. Both oils will do the job, once for 50-70% less....Wear will be the same, any slight wear reduction synthetic may bring (which I highly doubt) will simply be considered "nitpicking" and is unlikely to affect the engine life significantly, as the engine should last well over >250,000 miles.
 
7500 will be a stretch - do it and show me the money! I can say that as you cross the 6000-7500 mile barrier dinos will start to break down faster...how can you say 0.4 sol at less than 5000 miles is in "good shape"?
 
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