05 Chevy Classic - 02 Sensor

[clembrewer]

I've an engine code for a bank-1, sensor-1 o2 sensor error.

What will this do to my fuel economy if it is not fixed right away?

Where can I find a good deal on a replacement sensor? AAP wants $135 or so for a direct replacement, and about $70 for a generic.

Thanks

 

[Jason2007]

It could cause your engine to run rich or lean. If it is running rich you will be wasting fuel and if it is running lean you could burn a hole in a piston. Check RockAuto for your 02 sensor.

 

[The Critic]

$88.79 for a Bosch OE style replacement sensor from http://www.rockauto.com. Search around for the 5% off coupon code.

I used the Bosch OE style replacement sensor on my '96 Saturn. I have 4k+ on it now and there have been no problems, even with the CA smog check.

 

[brianl703]

gmpartsdirect.com has the front sensor for $72.

 

[mstrjon32]

Originally Posted By: brianl703
gmpartsdirect.com has the front sensor for $72.


This is the way to go. IMO, AVOID Bosch, I've owned more than a few Bosch O2 sensors and they've given me nothing but headaches.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: mstrjon32
Originally Posted By: brianl703
gmpartsdirect.com has the front sensor for $72.


This is the way to go. IMO, AVOID Bosch, I've owned more than a few Bosch O2 sensors and they've given me nothing but headaches.

On what cars? How long did it take before the problems showed up?

I have 4k+ miles on my sensor now and the fuel economy is much better than before.

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: clembrewer
I've an engine code for a bank-1, sensor-1 o2 sensor error.



Is this the 2.2L Ecotec engine or the 3.1L? What is the actual code? Sensor error is not an actual trouble code. The closest one I could think of would be "Bank X Sensor X circuit malfunction" which usually indicates a broken wire or corroded connector. I'd pinpoint the issue before spending ~$100 on not fixing the problem.

Joel

 

[clembrewer]

This is the 2.2L EcoTec.

I haven't had a chance to get under the car yet to look at the wires and make sure everything is plugged in and in good shape.

I had the code checked at AAP. I don't recall the exact code, but it indicated a problem with the upstream o2 sensor.

I'm definately going to look at the sensor/wiring before I buy anything. Heck, I won't be able to afford to fix this until next week anyway.

Whatever happened to those 2-wire sensors of yesteryear for $15? Sigh.

 

[JTK]

The good thing is, Ecotecs only have 2 O2 sensors and the upstream one can be reached from under the hood, or underneath. Looks like lots of room. I had a heck of a time a few years back sourcing a replacement O2 sensor for my 2002 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L. (heater circuit malfunction and constant CEL) Tried a few supposed direct fit a/m sensors and the connectors didn't match. Wound up mail ordering an OEM replacement for over $100. My local Isuzu dealer wanted ~$240 for one! A run of the mill GM won't be so difficult I'd think.

Joel

 

[eljefino]

There are codes like P0133 for a "lazy" o2 sensor that indicate the wiring is still good but they just aren't switching state as often as the 'puter would like. For these, a new o2 is a pretty sure bet.

Still always useful to write down the code number so you can google it later.

 

[clembrewer]

Here's a twist. The check engine light went away. I had played with the wires the other day, unpluged it/plugged it back in. This morning, driving to work, the light went out.

Could the sensor have been 'dirty'? Or is it more likely that mesing with the wires did something?

Something I didn't mention, that may not have had any effect, I used a bottle of Lucas UCL in this tank of gas (the light came on within 2 days of this most recent fill-up). I normally use some FP3000, but used the lucas to get some more of their nifty bottles.

 

[Hootbro]

Originally Posted By: clembrewer
Here's a twist. The check engine light went away. I had played with the wires the other day, unpluged it/plugged it back in. This morning, driving to work, the light went out.

Could the sensor have been 'dirty'? Or is it more likely that mesing with the wires did something?

Something I didn't mention, that may not have had any effect, I used a bottle of Lucas UCL in this tank of gas (the light came on within 2 days of this most recent fill-up). I normally use some FP3000, but used the lucas to get some more of their nifty bottles.


I would lean towards a dirty electrical connection you just solved by the reseat of the connector.

My wifes car was throwing a bad knock sensor code. I scanned and cleared the code twice with my reader. On the third time the light popped up, I reseated the connector and it never reappeared after clearing the code.