04 Saturn Vue Front bearing issue

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Front left wheel is making the roaring noise that indicates bearing is shot...brought it to the Saturn dealer and he confirmed that the bearing is "pitted and noisy" Said "possible bearing is seized to knuckle which would cause bearing and knuckle to be replaced"

He said it was still safe to drive as there was no real play in the bearing but should be replaced....est $375 to replace the bearing and $585 if the bearing is seized to the knuckle and both need to be replaced.

Both of these sound really high to me cost wise...I'll do some comparison shopping at some local shops to get an idea...they also quoted $240 to replace the sway bar links and I know for a fact that they are 32 dollars apiece at Auto Zone and don't look all that difficult to replace.

In any event.....is it really safe to drive with the bearing sounding like that and any idea how much $$ a non dealer would charge?

128K on the Vue.......when I had my Vue the bearings went out at 17K so I guess this one has lasted a lot longer lol


Thanks



Goose
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2 things I see here:

(1) shop around for cheeper dealer servicing for they have the proper tools to press the bearings/knuckles/hub out in a safe manner, unlike some backyard mechs who resort to using a slide hammer to get the job done (that's a strict no-no).

(2) dealer(s) would resort to using OE bearings and the quality should be far better (IMHO) than that of most aftermarket ones (unless you can guarantee me you can lay your hands on some SKF, Timkins, etc. As I'm seeing more and more cheep Chinese stuff out on the market these days (they fail more easily), I wouldn't bet my car's life on it.

That's my comment on your situation. It's your $$ and your car afterall..
Q.
 
Holy Carp...called 3 other places (Sullivan Tire-408, Pep Boys-367, Gurneys -470) and they are all more expensive than the dealer save Pep Boys!!


This looks like a pretty simple job save unless you need a puller I can't believe the pricing!!

Part is only like 120 from Rock Auto.....jeeesh


Goose
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If the dealer puts on the OEM bearing, it has a lifetime warranty parts and labor (if it's a participating lifetime warranty dealer).
 
DIY, Find a shop that will press the bearing for you for a fee. (usually $50) and replace bearing & spindle. You might want to do the other side bearing while you are there. That way you can save the spindle and just pay for the bearing & press job.

FWIW, usually there are several choices for replacement manufacturers. Any of the major manufacturers are fine. Timken, NSk, Skf, Koyo, INA etc. NAPA should be able to get the Timken ones.

Just do it all and schedule a wheel alignment the day you are finished and you will save yourself several hundred dollars.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Blue_Goose
This looks like a pretty simple job save unless you need a puller I can't believe the pricing!!


Man! DO NOT use a puller/slide hammer to bang the spindle out of the knuckle assembly unless you are prepared to replace all the bearings + the spindle. Otherwise, use a press!


Q.
 
Meant to say press...sorry bout that :)

Decided to bring it to a local shop.....384 including parts and labor. Says he will use National something or other assembly from NAPA.

I also have the sway bar links I bought from Auto Zone. I asked if he would mind installing them...I was going to DIY but figured it doesn't hurt to ask. He said usually he doesn't let customers buy their own parts but to leave them on the seat and he would do it for just the labor. Seems like a good guy

Thanks for the help guys....

Oh should I get an alignment after this? Never thought of that



Goose
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I just had to do this on a 91 Taurus. The spindle assembly naturally had to be removed and it didn't lend itself to being put on a press (too odd and you would need a really weird jig if you could). It was air chisel city to get the bearing out. Putting the new one in was press-able.

This required the riveted backing plate to be removed. It was tig welded back in place.

Getting the axle stub separated wasn't a big deal
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Wheel alignment is always needed when any major suspension or wheel components being serviced (bearings, wheel hub, steering knuckle, tie rod end, integrated ball joint with control arms, strut replacements, etc., otherwise, you'll be wearing out your otherwise good rubbers on your vehicle.

This is not a "what-if-I-don't..." question, it's a must (IMHO).

Q.

p.s. yesh, suspension and wheel-related components tend to be costly when repair is required....
 
Quote:
p.s. yesh, suspension and wheel-related components tend to be costly when repair is required....


Even DIY adds up rather quickly. The cost of simple swaybar bushings ..little more than grommets with a slit in them, are about $20 each.

The days of the $5.85 swaybar link kit when the way of the $3.95 Jiffy Kit carb rebuild kit.
 
I do majority of the bearing jobs on car. At my shop I recall my OTC hub kit cost about 500bucks or so. It presses the inteference fit bearing with collars and an impact gun. Works like a charm on pretty much most applications. No need to remove the spindle.

I must be lucky because I haven't encountered a siezed bearing in years. Maybe I should start billing for "siezed" and "not siezed" job. Oddly enought if its siezed how do you know??? LOL!!! If things are siezed I bill according to the extra time required not a "number out of a hat".

Sometimes things look easy but when corrosion sets in things can get tricky.
 
Job done and also sway bar links installed for an additional 78 dollars...well worth it imho since the weather looks like it is gonna be bad for the next week.....he said it was a bear to get out as he needed to heat it up etc and took him almost 2 hours to do but he only charged me 1.3 as that is what he said the book called for...wow..I wasn't expecting that..I might have found a new local reliable mechanic to go to



Goose
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