04 Dakota rear brakes

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Ok so about a week ago I accidentally take off without disengaging the parking brake. Made it to about 35-40 when I realized it and quickly stabbed the brakes before hitting the release. Since then I’ve had an intermittent squeal after parking the vehicle. It doesn’t correspond with using the P brake %100 of the time. Last week I noticed a fried electronics smell which Ive dealt with once before so after it was obvious the wires were fine, I realized there was smoke coming from the driver rear wheel. It went away but started squealing again last night. (Truck is 4 wheel disc)

Not %100 sure it’s the tophat/integrated parking brake system or the caliper. For one I still haven’t been able to remove the caliper. Used a C clamp to free up some slack and the caliper has slight movement but won’t pull off of the pads. The pads have clips not only holding them to the caliper but also appears to have clips at the top of each pad holding it there as well. Caliper doesn’t have a mounting bracket as it’s part of the axle and it looks like the caliper has interlocking teeth that also allow it to slide on “bracket”.

My doubts about the parking brake are based on the pads looking [censored] near brand new and sporting high end parts. (Rotors were Bosch Premium) but there’s rust all over the clips that the pads slide on and the bolts/pins were bone dry. No sign of grease being used anywhere. Spoke with my Grandfather who owns the Truck and he said a year or so ago they replaced the rear brakes at inspection and he never leaves town with the truck. 120xxx miles. I’ve had it since 117k while I putz along on my personal vehicle and It’s falling apart. I’ve driven it more in the past 4 months than he does in a year. He purchased it with a busted window motor, since then the other window just fell off the track when I hit a speed bump, a leak I thought I fixed 2 years ago came back and cost me $30 in hoses and fittings to fix, now the brakes aside from having to strip the driver floor and pillar trim to free a frozen seat belt.

Given the issues I’d like to remove this caliper without breaking anything, anyone got the proper method down pat?
 
Well I hope I’m wrong but the rust looks like it may be grease burnt to a crisp and I’m hoping the caliper ain’t melted on because I can still smell burning brakes in the axle/caliper/wheel well area. Been on the stand more than 12 hours.

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The parking brake is a drum brake inside the disc hub. On my 03' Dakota I kept hearing a tick at very low speeds. What happened was the material on the brake shoes had come off and was sliding back and forth inside the drum. Pop the the rear tires/caliper's off, pull the disc hat off, I'll bet the brake shoe material falls out.
 
I’ve tried everything short of a hammer and prybar to get the caliper off. Two 10mm caliper bolts, C Clamp to compress the piston, Screwdriver to pry and remove clips etc. but it does appear to be rust and bare metal everywhere.
 
Brake shoes are fried. They came apart by hand and had a nice crackle to them. They were so gone the smell was coming from them despite sitting this time.
 
I assume I’m correct in assuming that each box/bag of shoes and hardware covers one side right?
 
Yes. One drum hardware kit per side.

I'm not sure if they use an auto adjuster (I don't believe drum-in-rotors do) make sure they are the correct side.
 
Monroe sells all 4 in a set if the picture is correct. Rear drum calls for 11” but the parking brake shoe is 8”.

$50 for shoes and hardware kit. He never uses his parking brake stating he has faith the transmission will hold it. All these systems are auto adjusting and I was correct when I say no grease was used on the calipers or pads. Now I get to spend a day or so cussing and stabbing myself with needle nose.
 
Hopefully the last time I ever have to borrow my gramps truck. He bought the thing beat up and needing quite a bit of the stuff I’ve fixed. Given he barely drives it I’ve been the one footing the bill for repairs over the last 6 months or so.

Dodge is cheap junk to begin with but add in I’ve pointed out a few screw ups by his mechanic (partially the reason my car is sitting with no heads or intake on it right now) and his habit on waiting until [censored] is long broken to fix it I’m not gonna be chancing it anymore. His parking brake has always sunk to the floor as long as I’ve tried using it, funny part is now the [censored] tophat rotor is removed suddenly the parking brake line wants to catch and for once I’m getting ratcheting action in the pedal. Guess that’s what I get for trying to keep the vehicle from rolling the RIGHT way. Here’s hoping I don’t knock the [censored] thing off the jack stands and tell him to call insurance. $50 for new shoes and springs/clips. Last thing I’ll be buying for this POS.

TBH I wouldn’t be so [censored] if it weren’t for he fact the P Brake never ratcheted of got hung up until now, for a while I was convinced it needed new brake cables. Has me suspecting my fequent use along with it being an auto adjusted system loosened some old parts up.
 
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Final verdict. Went ahead and greased everything but the pads and rotors and the parking brake mechanism is the culprit. Shoes on driver rear stick intermittently and the actual expanding piston is rusted everywhere there is metal. Shop that installed his rear brakes just slapped em on and sent it. I’m taking a wire brush and WD40 to everything I can possibly reach. Hoping it keeps brake fires to a minimum until parts arrive.
 
not sure about your model, but some rear caliper pistons are rotated to retract rather than the c-clamp method
 
What’s the secret to installing these things? Disassembly was easy as can be but it seems I need 3 or 4 hands to install the shoes. One to hold the pin and shoe in place, another to compress the spring clip and another simultaneously line the pin up with the slotted side of the clip and also one to rotate it in order to lock it in place.

Only specialty tool I have is some generic 5 piece drum brake tool kit.
 
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