03 V6 Ford Escape EGR valve

[Bluestream]

I'm chasing a poor fuel economy issue with my daughters 03 Escape. Engine has 71,000 KMs and runs well with no CEL. Fuel consumption is about 17L per 100KMs

So far I have replaced the air filter, and fuel filter, and cleaned MAF sensor to no avail. I pulled the spark plugs and they were gaped to .060 so I gaped the to .054 Plugs looked good and had good color. They were NGK single plats, so I assume someone has already replaced these plugs, as Motorcraft should have been factory.

I want to ensure the EGR works, so applied vacuum to the valve, and I could hear it move with a click noise. The vacuum line to the EGR is ported, and when I hooked a vac gauge to the line going to the EGR, I was only able to get a blip on the gauge when I revved the engine, then it went back to zero vacuum. I assume the ECM will call for the EGR to open when the engine is revved?? I am convinced the valve works, but not sure if it is getting vacuum when it should. There is some type of solenoid that controls the vac to the EGR.

Can I test that by applying 12V?

 

[Jetronic]

the egr should close when you start revving, with a warm engine egr is likely partly open at idle.

A closed egr won't cause a spike in fuel consumption though. check the thermostat closes fully and consider the usage the car is getting.

Check for fuel line leaks aswell!

 

[spasm3]

That engine has an egr solenoild. If will throw a code if it does not work.
When i had an 01 v-6 escape it got about 18mpg and 28mpg hwy. how bad is the mileage? I did replace the upstream O2 sensors at around 120k miles and the fuel mileage went back to the above numbers from 16 and 24.

 

[Quest]

Originally Posted By: Jetronic
the egr should close when you start revving, with a warm engine egr is likely partly open at idle.

A closed egr won't cause a spike in fuel consumption though. check the thermostat closes fully and consider the usage the car is getting.

Check for fuel line leaks aswell!


EGR partially open at idle?!

 

[ToadU]

Check for daughter driving with a lead foot and overall driving techniques. How someone drives can dramatically effect fuel economy. Two different drivers of the same car can get wildly different MPGs

 

[Quest]

what size engine is it?

what type of vehicle? does it come with AWD or the FWD version?

Any issues with thermostat? (engine delivers hot air from the vent while cruising down the highway?

Q.

 

[Danno]

Had a 2002 Escape. Check for plugged cat convertor - especially if it feels sluggish when driving it.

 

[Bluestream]

Its a 3.0L V6 with FWD. and I don't know how she drives it. I may take it myself for a week to check, but she claims is is way worse than her previous 4 cyl Escape to the point she wants to sell it. Danno, yes, it puts out good heat...

I have bought new upstream o2's and will get them in soon, but with the low mileage they should still be good, although they would be 13 years old.... They were Bosch and only cost $30 each. I could put in a new thermostat to be safe for the small cost involved. This 3.0L is not a fun engine to work on IMO...

 

[JC1]

A v6 of driven with a lead foot will result in bad fuel economy of 17l/100 km.

 

[ToadU]

Typically smaller engines do better on the highway and lightly loaded. Larger engines don't have to work as hard in town accelerating and when heavily loaded perform better. Of course about 1,000 variables but equal for equal weight for weight a lot has to do with highway vs city and the load. A 4 cylinder is somtimes more efficient and sometimes less depending on application. There isn't a lot of room in the 3.0V6 but it's a nearly indestructible engine with good reliability IMHO

 

[jk_636]

Did you check the PCV valve? I dont remember if that model had a traditional or a heated PCV in it.

But I also agree that a lead foot could definetely decrease the gas mileage.

 

[jk_636]

Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Its a 3.0L V6 with FWD. and I don't know how she drives it. I may take it myself for a week to check, but she claims is is way worse than her previous 4 cyl Escape to the point she wants to sell it. Danno, yes, it puts out good heat...

I have bought new upstream o2's and will get them in soon, but with the low mileage they should still be good, although they would be 13 years old.... They were Bosch and only cost $30 each. I could put in a new thermostat to be safe for the small cost involved. This 3.0L is not a fun engine to work on IMO...


If the oxygen sensors were going out it would throw a CEL code. I doubt that is the underlying factor. I have a 2012 Escape with the V6 and I agree, it is no fun to work on. Everything in that vehicle is a pain to get to!

 

[Jetronic]

Originally Posted By: Quest
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
the egr should close when you start revving, with a warm engine egr is likely partly open at idle.

A closed egr won't cause a spike in fuel consumption though. check the thermostat closes fully and consider the usage the car is getting.

Check for fuel line leaks aswell!


EGR partially open at idle?!



quite common these days

 

[Lubener]

The EGR will not have a big impact on fuel consumption. It will lower NOX emissions when working (by lowering combustion chamber temps). If it does not open, the engine will likely start pinging and NOX emissions will increase.. If it is stuck open, your engine will not idle due to a lean mix. Apply EGR vacuum to an idling engine and it will run badly or stall out. If not, check the valve itself or its plumbing for blockages. In my opinion, you are barking up the wrong tree and throwing parts at it without proper testing.

 

[Bluestream]

With the exception of the o2 sensors and thermostat I am not throwing parts at it. The air filter was dirty and needed replacement and the fuel filter was original. Spark plugs were fine and I just gaped them

Without a CEL code my only option is to symmetrically inspect and trouble shoot all possible causes one by one. I got hung up on the EGR when I did not see any vacuum going to it. I have now inspected the EGR valve and it opens and closes when I manually apply vacuum.

I still want to check fuel pump pressure and inspect vacuum line below the intake manifold. I can get the injects flow tested for free if I bother to take them out.

As far as o2 sensors go, I replaced my upstream sensors on my (high mileage) Explorer and got 15-20% increased highway mileage and there was no code. I wish I had done that years ago as the sensors are cheap. They have a limited useful life and should be replaced more on mileage than if they throw a code. The Escape has low mileage, and you would think the o2s would still be fine. Not sure if I can check the switching of them with my code reader or not, but I have already bought new ones...