03 Honda S2000 w/Amsoil 0W-30 40K OCI w/Bypass

[StevieC]

Originally Posted by CT8
Originally Posted by StevieC
Seems to work for me and others on this board and we aren't running bypass on our units either. Maybe in 10 years the mindset here will change...

I ran a bypass filter in the 1980s because a friend was an Amsoil dealer . Not really worth it for the 99.99% of us.
I met a guy with over 400,000 miles running Amsoil oil and filters doing 25,000 mile oil change intervals on a Nissan pick up.


I'm convinced if the camshaft hadn't snapped from a casting defect which subsequently caused the valves to slam into the piston, I would still be driving it as it wasn't even using oil at the 300K mile mark. (535K KM). It wasn't the most powerful or comfortable car but it was dependable with the least amount of repairs I've done to date on any vehicle.

I'm hoping to fix that record with my new Highlander.

 

[slalom44]

Originally Posted by StevieC
Have you thought about using the Amsoil Flush product in the crank case to clean up the rings? You would need to temporarily disable your bypass setup for this. Also the P.I. fuel additive which is quite strong cleaning up the fuel system and might have a further effect on the rings. Just a thought seeing as you tried the obvious PCV.

I did consider doing a flush right before my oil change but I'm a little nervous about doing something like this and then leaving the residue of that flush in my system for the next 40,000 miles. To be safe I'd have to do a short OCI in between. I'm going to wait and see if the oil consumption gets significantly worse. If it does, I'll consider a flush at my next oil change.

 

[StevieC]

The Amsoil flush isn't harsh and doesn't contain solvents. It just contains a lot of detergents which are similar to the detergents found in their regular oils just a lot more concentrated. They also recommend doing a flush before running their oils for extended drain intervals to make sure you are starting with a clean engine.

If it contained harsh solvent type of flushing agents I would agree with you and tell you to run a short interval thereafter with some cheap oil to rinse it out of the system but it's just detergents in theirs.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...otectants/engine-and-transmission-flush/

Quote
Prepares engines and transmissions for new oil

Unlike many flush products, AMSOIL Engine and Transmission Flush features a multi-use formulation that dissolves and disperses sludge, varnish and deposits in both engines and automatic transmissions. Due to its detergent-based formulation, it can be easily disposed of with waste oil, making it more user-friendly. Its advanced formula of light base oil technology, powerful detergents and dispersants provides safe cleaning action. AMSOIL Engine and Transmission Flush is compatible with both petroleum and synthetic oils, preparing poorly maintained equipment for installation of new oil.

Though it works in one treatment, AMSOIL Engine and Transmission Flush is safe enough to be used at every oil change. If using a flushing machine, follow the manufacturer's recommendation. Otherwise, use the following guidelines:

Engine: Add 16 oz. bottle of AMSOIL Engine and Transmission Flush to engine oil fill port. Idle the engine for 10-15 minutes, then immediately drain the oil.
Remove and replace the engine oil filter. Refill engine with new engine oil in the viscosity grade recommended by the manufacturer.

 

[rrounds]

As for your oil use did you read this post on S2KI, something new to think about.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-u...-burn-story-conquering-phantoms-1188455/

I am in the process of making a oil filter adapter for my '06 S as to run a filter made for a Power Storke diesel. Filters 99% @ 17m and 50% @ 7m.
I'm close to 150k miles on our S and I have had to add oil only a couple of times in all the years and miles we put on her. My old oil filters were Baldwin B202 and B7042 which I run 15k miles(change every other oil chcage).

Keep racking up those miles,
ROD

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by rrounds
I am in the process of making a oil filter adapter for my '06 S as to run a filter made for a Power Storke diesel. Filters 99% @ 17m and 50% @ 7m.
They make filter adapters for remote mounts, which is probably what you'll have to do to find enough space to tuck a big oil filter somewhere. The 50% @ 7 microns figure is good, but the Fram Ultra is 80% at 5 microns. I saw a Fram Ultra for a Power Stroke diesel, I think the one in a 7.3L 2003 F250, big one, but where is the underhood space in an S2000?

 

[Cujet]

It's amazing how long an engine can last when the oil is free of particulates.

 

[rrounds]

Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Originally Posted by rrounds
I am in the process of making a oil filter adapter for my '06 S as to run a filter made for a Power Storke diesel. Filters 99% @ 17m and 50% @ 7m.
They make filter adapters for remote mounts, which is probably what you'll have to do to find enough space to tuck a big oil filter somewhere. The 50% @ 7 microns figure is good, but the Fram Ultra is 80% at 5 microns. I saw a Fram Ultra for a Power Stroke diesel, I think the one in a 7.3L 2003 F250, big one, but where is the underhood space in an S2000?

That filter doesn't have a by-pass in it. The one for a '11 P/S does, but Fram doesn't make a Ultra for the '11. I will use a Wix or Donaldson and it will fit in the stock location. No modification or hoses to run, just spin it on.

ROD

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by rrounds
That filter doesn't have a by-pass in it. The one for a '11 P/S does, but Fram doesn't make a Ultra for the '11. I will use a Wix or Donaldson and it will fit in the stock location. No modification or hoses to run, just spin it on.--ROD
Seriously, you don't need a bypass in there if the oil filter is that big for an engine that small. I'd run the superior Fram Ultra synthetic media & forget the bypass issue. Bypass valves are for when the oil filter gets clogged (not gonna happen on a massive Ultra) and they also can pop open on a cold winter day with thick oil, none of which are an issue here.

Suprising the massive can will fit with no remote relocation.

 

[JZiggy]

Does this engine still have its original valve stem seals? I've seen the intake sides go bad on some of my older Hondas around 200k which contributes to oil consumption.

 

[slalom44]

Originally Posted by rrounds
As for your oil use did you read this post on S2KI, something new to think about.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-u...-burn-story-conquering-phantoms-1188455/

Yeah, I read that post. I checked my vacuum lines and they all seem intact. I don't have a way to measure vacuum. Since my oil consumption came on gradually I think that's likely not my issue.

I have not touched my valve stem seals. I have heard that worn valve stem seals have a telltale sign during deceleration. I don't know if that's true, so I guess I haven't ruled this out. I'm considering replacing them anyway. Something to think about....

 

[StevieC]

I was thinking about the miles you have on the vehicle and I was also thinking about the Amsoil formulation change that happened last fall but didn't really hit the DC's until a little while later. Maybe the new formula has something to do with it in that particular engine? (The bottles state 75% more wear protection on them now.)

Just a thought.

 

[JZiggy]

Originally Posted by slalom44

I have not touched my valve stem seals. I have heard that worn valve stem seals have a telltale sign during deceleration. I don't know if that's true, so I guess I haven't ruled this out. I'm considering replacing them anyway. Something to think about....


My experience has been that the oil burning shows up upon acceleration after driving for a bit and coming to a stop. I followed someone driving my car, pulled up to a red light, once the driver hit the gas a small puff of blue came out the tailpipe and then stopped.

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted by JZiggy
Originally Posted by slalom44

I have not touched my valve stem seals. I have heard that worn valve stem seals have a telltale sign during deceleration. I don't know if that's true, so I guess I haven't ruled this out. I'm considering replacing them anyway. Something to think about....


My experience has been that the oil burning shows up upon acceleration after driving for a bit and coming to a stop. I followed someone driving my car, pulled up to a red light, once the driver hit the gas a small puff of blue came out the tailpipe and then stopped.

That could also be rings. The way to tell is if the vehicle sits overnight and there is a decent bit of blue smoke upon start-up that's usually seals.

 

[ZZman]

Man that oil is heavy duty on the add pack!

 

[joekingcorvette]

I read all the posts and all I have to say is it seems Honda's last a long time. I hope you make it to 500,000 miles or even go a million like million mile Joe.

 

[DeafBrad]

Originally Posted by joekingcorvette
... or even go a million like million mile Joe.


While Million Mile Joe drove a lot of miles, but he did rebuild his engine 1 time.