03 Chevrolet
- Thread starter mjoekingz28
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There is a half inch gap difference there too.
The driver side is 7" from wheel well to a point on the tire, while the passenger side is 7.5".
Seems consistent with the rear. So what could be making the entire driver's side of the truck to be lower than the passenger. Could it be I never really have a passenger? A prior accident? The front bumper is different on either side. I will snap another set of photos.
The driver side is 7" from wheel well to a point on the tire, while the passenger side is 7.5".
Seems consistent with the rear. So what could be making the entire driver's side of the truck to be lower than the passenger. Could it be I never really have a passenger? A prior accident? The front bumper is different on either side. I will snap another set of photos.
Enough random photos for now. You have 14+ years of always carrying at least a few hundred pounds more on that side.
Get a 18mm socket (use on bolt right in middle of picture below), penetrating oil, and a long ratchet/breaker bar. Jack-up a little to take pressure off (don't try with all truck weight sitting on ground). Adjust until even side-to-side.
Get a 18mm socket (use on bolt right in middle of picture below), penetrating oil, and a long ratchet/breaker bar. Jack-up a little to take pressure off (don't try with all truck weight sitting on ground). Adjust until even side-to-side.
ahh the torsion bar. I've read a lot about those on the GM truck site. I don't think I will be touching it anytime soon. It is too unknown for me right now. I might research some more about it, but I don't want to go cranking it until something goes pop.
On a sportbike I had I would keep messing with the rebound or compression setting on the rear shock until one day it would just free spin. I kept messing with it trying to feel a difference and eventually turned it past it limits.
I don't want to do that to this truck.
Isn't there a torsion bar for the front AND the rear- so I would need to make two adjustments?
On a sportbike I had I would keep messing with the rebound or compression setting on the rear shock until one day it would just free spin. I kept messing with it trying to feel a difference and eventually turned it past it limits.
I don't want to do that to this truck.
Isn't there a torsion bar for the front AND the rear- so I would need to make two adjustments?
Torsion bar front, leaf-spring rear.
You would make adjustments on each front-end torsion bar (left/right side) to even it out. Very easy to do, and nearly foolproof if you follow what I said above.
People run into issues (breaking bolts) when they get foolish; no penetrant, doing it with full weight on ground, using an impact, etc.
You would make adjustments on each front-end torsion bar (left/right side) to even it out. Very easy to do, and nearly foolproof if you follow what I said above.
People run into issues (breaking bolts) when they get foolish; no penetrant, doing it with full weight on ground, using an impact, etc.
Sorry to bombard you Ramblejam, but with a jack and four stands-what do I do?
Take weight off the front crossmember with the jack, take weight off the rear axle, or get the entire truck's corners up on four jackstands?
Take weight off the front crossmember with the jack, take weight off the rear axle, or get the entire truck's corners up on four jackstands?
Thanks for your help.
I will try to study what's going on the next time I am under the truck.
.....will try to update with any future info.
I will try to study what's going on the next time I am under the truck.
.....will try to update with any future info.
Only have a minute before I have to run; just use the OE recommended frame jack point (like you were changing a flat tire). If you don't know where it's at, now's a great time to pop out the factory jack and owners manual so you'll know how before you really need it one day.
If your goal is to bring up the drivers side 1/2" to match passenger side:
1. Jack up drivers side.
2. Spray down torsion bar bolt threads.
3. Use a good six-point 18mm socket, and with a long ratchet/breaker bar, turn clockwise (righty-tighty). This will thread the bolt in.
4. Make a couple rotations, then drop truck back on the ground and measure again. Repeat until desired results achieved.
I'm sure someone else with follow-up from here....
If your goal is to bring up the drivers side 1/2" to match passenger side:
1. Jack up drivers side.
2. Spray down torsion bar bolt threads.
3. Use a good six-point 18mm socket, and with a long ratchet/breaker bar, turn clockwise (righty-tighty). This will thread the bolt in.
4. Make a couple rotations, then drop truck back on the ground and measure again. Repeat until desired results achieved.
I'm sure someone else with follow-up from here....
So, it is desirable to raise the driver's side instead of lowering the passenger's side?
Ok, I just wasn't sure if the rear wheels needed to be off the ground side both front LF and LR are lower than the RF and RR.
Ok, I just wasn't sure if the rear wheels needed to be off the ground side both front LF and LR are lower than the RF and RR.
Do you think the truck has had frame damage? When I went to survey, the passenger side torsion bolt had a lot more threads showing (aka it was sticking further down) than the driver side. Then I just turned the driver CW right about two revolutions and the gap seemed to go from 4/8ths to about 3/8ths. I'm not that good with a tape measure, but a 1/2 inch before and now maybe 5/16ths. A quarter inch+ closer now a 1/4 inch to begin, and now those two turns took in just over half the gap......so more than 1/8" but not 2/8", so 3/16". maybe another turn will close it further, but a test ride is in order and those factory jacks are like that "other" gear on a tractor/trailer's landing gear. You can spin it all day and get an inch, the mechanical advantage must be crazy. Its not even hydraulic for all I know.
Seemed to ride well. I felt like I was sitting up too tall at first. Maybe when I get to it, one more full spin on the bolt should get things to where they should be.
I also retorqued the wheels. IIRC, when I put the wheels on about two years ago I torqued them with a Pittsburgh torque to 100-125ft-lbs, I don't remember exactly. I just remember that the called for 150 seemed like a lot and I had put anti-seize on all the threads. Well, I broke out my first tool truck purchase (Cornwell 27" flex breaker) and gave the best rendition I could to estimate 150 ft-lbs. 150 by 27" should be about 65-70 pounds of force at the handle, but I tried to be consistent. I also don't have the short term memory to count to eight so I ended up going back over some lugs in hopes of not missing any. 4, 5 or 6 lug hubs seem to be a sure thing, but 8 I haven't figured out a pattern to 'mark' itself.
I also retorqued the wheels. IIRC, when I put the wheels on about two years ago I torqued them with a Pittsburgh torque to 100-125ft-lbs, I don't remember exactly. I just remember that the called for 150 seemed like a lot and I had put anti-seize on all the threads. Well, I broke out my first tool truck purchase (Cornwell 27" flex breaker) and gave the best rendition I could to estimate 150 ft-lbs. 150 by 27" should be about 65-70 pounds of force at the handle, but I tried to be consistent. I also don't have the short term memory to count to eight so I ended up going back over some lugs in hopes of not missing any. 4, 5 or 6 lug hubs seem to be a sure thing, but 8 I haven't figured out a pattern to 'mark' itself.
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