If a component of your cooling system is acting up you wont get cold ac. I would think to check the thermostat and water pump and work your way back. Is coolant up to par?
02 Silverado 5.3L Overheating
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Originally Posted By: Marco620
If a component of your cooling system is acting up you wont get cold ac. I would think to check the thermostat and water pump and work your way back. Is coolant up to par?
Yes, coolant holds its level. I will keep an eye on it though.
I have AC that blows cold. It probably stopped working the other day because the hot engine made it some to shut off. Don't know, my guess.
But again, AC blows cold all the time
If a component of your cooling system is acting up you wont get cold ac. I would think to check the thermostat and water pump and work your way back. Is coolant up to par?
Yes, coolant holds its level. I will keep an eye on it though.
I have AC that blows cold. It probably stopped working the other day because the hot engine made it some to shut off. Don't know, my guess.
But again, AC blows cold all the time
Most computer controlled vehicles will disable the AC under an overheat situation.
As you are experiencing overheating while at-speed, I'm going to say the fan clutch is not the issue here. I'd test the radiator cap, and then pull and test the thermostat.
As you are experiencing overheating while at-speed, I'm going to say the fan clutch is not the issue here. I'd test the radiator cap, and then pull and test the thermostat.
Surely there's an aftermarket electric fan kit available for something as popular as a Chevy truck. . .
I don't trust those fan clutches and never did.
I don't trust those fan clutches and never did.
A true mechanical fan clutch is more reliable on the whole than electric fans. This is coming from a person who prefers electric fans.
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
A true mechanical fan clutch is more reliable on the whole than electric fans. This is coming from a person who prefers electric fans.
Proven in extensive testing by our Factory Authorized Upfitter. They use regular centrifugal fans that release at around 2 grand. Much more reliable long term than most electrics.
A true mechanical fan clutch is more reliable on the whole than electric fans. This is coming from a person who prefers electric fans.
Proven in extensive testing by our Factory Authorized Upfitter. They use regular centrifugal fans that release at around 2 grand. Much more reliable long term than most electrics.
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
As you are experiencing overheating while at-speed, I'm going to say the fan clutch is not the issue here. I'd test the radiator cap, and then pull and test the thermostat.
He said in the OP that he overheated after he got back in from a 5 min stop.
As you are experiencing overheating while at-speed, I'm going to say the fan clutch is not the issue here. I'd test the radiator cap, and then pull and test the thermostat.
He said in the OP that he overheated after he got back in from a 5 min stop.
Partially-plugged heater core?
Coolant mixture too strong?
Coolant mixture too strong?
- The water pump impeller might not be turning
- The thermostat might not be opening
- The radiator might be clogged up
It's either one of those three or all three.
- The thermostat might not be opening
- The radiator might be clogged up
It's either one of those three or all three.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
I'd be willing to bet it's the fan clutch.
I've been battling basically the exact same symptoms you've been having with my grandmother's 2002 Chevy Trailblazer. Just had the fan clutch replaced and it is a night and day difference. When the engine is started, the fan clutch roars to life and moves lots of air, you wouldn't believe the difference. You couldn't hear the old fan engage ever.
Now the A/C is ice cold since the condenser gets a lot more air over it and the temperature is always perfect and dead on now.
I've been battling basically the exact same symptoms you've been having with my grandmother's 2002 Chevy Trailblazer. Just had the fan clutch replaced and it is a night and day difference. When the engine is started, the fan clutch roars to life and moves lots of air, you wouldn't believe the difference. You couldn't hear the old fan engage ever.
Now the A/C is ice cold since the condenser gets a lot more air over it and the temperature is always perfect and dead on now.
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Now the A/C is ice cold since the condenser gets a lot more air over it and the temperature is always perfect and dead on now.
That is how we determine our unit's condition. The AC performance at idle diminishes, replace the clutch and...voila! Cold AC again...
Now the A/C is ice cold since the condenser gets a lot more air over it and the temperature is always perfect and dead on now.
That is how we determine our unit's condition. The AC performance at idle diminishes, replace the clutch and...voila! Cold AC again...
Me - I usually go easy things, proceed as necessary...
~ Check, clean if necessary the front end (radiator/condenser)- bugs/debris in cooling fins.
~ System is filled and purged of air.
~ Belt not glazed.
~ Change the radiator cap (get a good one - oem). At least clean the seal on yours until then.
~ Check hoses are getting pressurized when up to temp
Then if no go:
~ Thermostat (get a OEM)- recheck to see if overheating still.
~ Fan clutch next as many mention - recheck...
~ Water pump issue
~ Check, clean if necessary the front end (radiator/condenser)- bugs/debris in cooling fins.
~ System is filled and purged of air.
~ Belt not glazed.
~ Change the radiator cap (get a good one - oem). At least clean the seal on yours until then.
~ Check hoses are getting pressurized when up to temp
Then if no go:
~ Thermostat (get a OEM)- recheck to see if overheating still.
~ Fan clutch next as many mention - recheck...
~ Water pump issue
My guess the problem is in the fan also. The reason is that once you get the car moving, it cools down. A stuck T-stat wouldn't have any bearing on that. Do you have e-fans, clutch or a combination of both?
E-fan is electric fan. Would not be connected to the belt drive system. A clutch fan is a mechanically driven fan that would be attached to the belt drive system, usually on the water pump.
The clutch tightens on the fan when it reaches a certain underhood temp while an electric fan would turn on at a predetermined coolant temp using a signal from the ecu.
The clutch tightens on the fan when it reaches a certain underhood temp while an electric fan would turn on at a predetermined coolant temp using a signal from the ecu.
Sounds like a classic fan issue fwiw
Had very similar problems with an older high mileage Volvo. No problem on cooler days or at highway speeds. Running hot on hot days and scarry hot with the combination of a hot day and low speeds after a highway run.
Had the radiator cleaned inside and out by a radiator shop - end of problem.
Had the radiator cleaned inside and out by a radiator shop - end of problem.
It overheats and ac blows hot until you get moving?
I'd bet it's your fan clutchave. They don't last for ever! It's a pretty easy job though
I'd bet it's your fan clutchave. They don't last for ever! It's a pretty easy job though
I have a GM Genuine part#20913877.
Might just go with this site.
Warranty for part is 12 months
http://www.gmpartscenter.net/oe-gm/20913877
Does anyone know if AC Delco makes the part for GM?
Might just go with this site.
Warranty for part is 12 months
http://www.gmpartscenter.net/oe-gm/20913877
Does anyone know if AC Delco makes the part for GM?
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