02 Accord V6 3297 Mi Penzoil Ultra 5w20

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Here is the second of my disappointing UOA's...
What do you guys make of this?

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Looks like I might have wrote 5w30 on the slip, or they couldn't read my messy handwriting. It was 5w20, as the oil fill cap says the engine takes...

Could it be that lots of gunk is getting past the air filter, causing the high Iron? The car has a somewhat hacked up stock air box in it now... There very well could be a huge leak, I never looked at it.

I might see if i can cover the intake at the very end, and see how the engine reacts.But my main concern is there has been a bearing grinding sort of sound at idle to about 2k rpm, and it varies with rpm. It gets better when the engine warms up, is coming from near the timing cover area...
 
I idle the car in the morning for about 2 mins, until the water temp hits about 125 and it goes into closed loop. Otherwise the transmission shifts like [censored]. Im told cold idle is bad on a engine, but oh well. I drive slowly for at least 5-10 mins, quite a bit longer after water temp hits in the 174-178ºF range and the thermostat opens. I can hit redline a few times a day, and sometimes may be heavy on the throttle. But its always warmed up, i don't do cold starts right into abuse.

The car had a aftermarket intake on it for 4-5 years, and I put the stock one one it about a year or so ago. It didn't line up quite right, and the coupler from the upper to the lower box is a bit tweaked. I was missing some hardware for the lower box. The actual intake tube was in the way of the projectors retrofitted into the headlights, and I had to cut it down a bit to clear...

Cliffs: Constant cold idles im not giving up, engine always warmed up, 50/50 city highway, and a possible air leak in the intake, although it would be more likely the leak is before the filter, which should be fine?
 
Redline "a few times a day"???? You are going to lose the transmission,if you keep driving it that hard. Use only the Honda brand ATF and change it out about every 15-20k. Can't help you with the AF. Mine is stock at 109k.
 
Not necessarily every day, but yes, quite a bit more often than the average person. The transmission has shifted about the same for the 5-6 years I owned the vehicle, so its probably OK. I do a drain and fill with Honda ATF-Z1 every 10K miles and have a stacked plate design trans cooler with a thermostat. If the trans decides to go, its just a excuse to swap in a J32A3 and a 6 speed trans.

Regardless, im wondering whats up with the high Iron... Its the same as before, with 1/2 the miles on the oil... Ill check the airbox this weekend, but could that really be causing this?
 
Silicon is very high for the miles, so a good chnk of this wear is abrasive wear from dirt ingestion.

I'd do my best to get the air filter box fixed, or ever put the CAI back on, if it seals better.
 
Good work with the 10k Z1 changes. I think these engines are hard on oil and wear.(Look at the universal averages.) I run M1 EP 5-20 and change it every 6 months,Fall and Spring,it's about 4k for me. Bought it new and have never redlined it. Fixing the oem air box and running the oem Honda AF should help. You might try to drive it easy for 1 oci and see how much different the UOA appears. Good luck with it.
 
As long as the system is sealed between the filter and the engine, it should be okay. I couldn't figure out from your post where the intake system was "tweaked". The filter may have a thick foam gasket on it which would take up some slack in how the upper and lower air filter housings clamp together. Anything upstream of the filter (tubing, etc) won't matter to the engine (in terms of cleanliness anyway).
 
I put a block heater in a few weeks ago, which should help out with the upcoming winter months ahead... Its already gained me about 1.4 MPG on my last tank, which makes me want to actually try for MPG this next tank. Im probably going to be taking it easy for this whole tank and see what happens with my MPG, which should help out my next UOA. I've never really been concerned with MPG in terms of cost, I just like improving efficiency, which is the only reason why I track it. I suppose I like improving efficiency in any aspect.

I dont have any good way to explain it simply, but the stock having a huge leak somewhere wouldn't surprise me. Ive been trying to get my hands on a Comptech Icebox for a while now, theyre $350+ new, which is too much...
 
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I forgot to note that im trying out a FilterMag RA300 on my Puralator PureOne filter this fill... Besides winter, the next UOA should show if this magnet does anything.
 
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