'01 Pathfinder Trans pan removal

[spande]

I am getting ready to do a transmission drain and fill after having finished my 1000 mile run of Auto-RX. I am planning to also drop the pan and replace the pick up screen/filter and also flush through the cooling lines. Plan on using Castol Dex III (H)

I was hoping someone might be able to offer some advice on what is invloved in dropping the pan. I can see the screws/bolts easily, there seems to be some sort of brackets for the cooloing lines, but they seem easy to deal with. I know there is always a chance of snapping a bolt (which would really be a problem for me), but are there any other possible trouble areas, for example in removing the filter. I seem to recall on a forum I read recently, that there may be some sort of hidden or out of reach nut for one of the bolts that hold the filter screen and that once the bolt is removed, it is very difficult to re-thread the bolt because you can't get a grip on it. I do not recall if this was an issue with the Pathfinder, or just a general issue that I read about. If anyone has done the trans pan drop on a 2001 Pathfinder, I would greatly apprecioate any tips or cautionary advice. Thanks.

 

[The Critic]

Removing the cooler lines isn't worth the hassle, period. Remove the pan, clean/replace the filter, and refill. Drain/fill again via the drain plug one or two additional times, and you'll be fine.

 

[spande]

Thanks Critic. You are not the first person to suggest not fooling around with cooler lines. I am thinking of doing it in steps like you suggest, but am still concerned about the degree of difficulty in pan removal and possible screen removal. Maybe I am just getting spooked about possibly snapping a bolt or not being able to securely button everything back up. If I just do several drain and fills, without pan removal, will I be wasting my time? Will the ARX have liquified any possible sludge enough to allow most of it to pass via several drain and fill procedures? Again, the trans does seem to be running fine, fluid on the diprstick appears to be very clean (even after ARX), this is just a preventative measure I am trying to take. Thanks.

 

[unDummy]

Most Nissans that I've worked on had very simple hose clamps on the oil cooler lines. If so, thats the easiest way.
Several weekly pan drain/refills is good enough. Because Nissan uses drainplugs, thats the easiest method. But, I prefer to keep my weekends free and usually pull the cooler line for a quick flush.

Dropping the pan is needed to service the pan magnet. If you have 100k or more miles, you'll want to clean that magnet. The pan will require a quality OEM type gasket and NEW pan bolts. These are those self sealing ATF-pan-bolts. I usually reuse old bolts with a brush on thread sealer.

Nissans ATF filter screens are easy to replace. There are several different length bolts. Just remove one at a time and stick them into the new filter to prevent mixup.

Besided the filter bolts, in some Nissans, there is an anti-backyard mechanic nut that everyone is afraid of. I've never had a problem with it. Just slot the bolt with a dremel for a screwdriver. The screwdriver holds the bolt while you loosen the nut. The free spinning bolt is more of a incompetent-tech scare tactic bouncing around all the Nissan forums.

And, you must use a torque wrench on the ATF filter and pan.

 

[FazerZ]

[ June 27, 2006, 09:29 PM: Message edited by: FazerZ ]