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There is a lot of documentation about the Mazda 2.5 engine not being picky about oil. It's very common to bump up the viscosity to a xW-30 in these, but if it is brand new and you want to maintain the warranty, most don't make that change until the warranty expires. Any oil, including the...

I stand corrected. I must have been thinking of the 300V series and/or some mention of Motul being a group IV/V oil. Either way I hope my engine doesn't blow up now (this is 100% sarcastic, I am not at all bothered by being corrected)

Many people on this forum hate on Motul and Liquimoly simply because they're more expensive and don't show any discernable benefits with a VOA/UOA over locally available oil. As far as I am concerned, they're both quality oils, run what makes you happy. I have Motul in my Mazda now, it runs...

I assume by gasket, you mean the crush washer for the drain plug? If so, yes, it is standard practice to replace that with every oil change, some people do use them for a couple of oil changes. Aftermarket filters will not come with them like the Mazda filter does, but just search for "2021...

I drive a Mazda 6 with the same engine. I recently switched from 20 weight to 30 weight oil and you will lose maybe 1 mpg, but it's been highly reported that Mazda recommends 5W-30 for this engine in the rest of the world and it will protect the internals of your engine better over time. Really...

Originally Posted By: gathermewool Check the PCV valve before you do anything. Unless you’re somewhat mechanically inclined, I would steer clear of doing any soaks. Your oil consumption isn’t bad, but could be made worse, say, if you partially hydro lock a cylinder... Also, switch to the...

Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis If the piston rings are stuck, you will get a lot of blow-by. Air will blow out of the oil filler hole while running with the cap removed. Also the oil filter accumulates black carbon/dirt in the pleats of the media, that is another indication of stuck/worn...

Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis Is the engine wet and dirty with oil? If the valve cover gasket is leaking on the forward side of the engine, it can leak quite a bit and not drip on the ground. It is not, I actually changed this gasket not long ago.

Originally Posted By: Char Baby Originally Posted By: Andya26 Originally Posted By: CT8 How has the engine been maintained before the previous 3 oil changes? Not sure, bought it with 196,000 on it. I mean it does run very well, so I am assuming it has been maintained reasonably well. I think...

So, the plan I have formulated is.... 1) Execute the BG109/Break Free concoction 2) Change oil and PCV valve with conventional 10W-40 Quaker State (cheapest on Amazon) 3) See what happens Any objections to this plan? Speak now or forever hold your peace.

Originally Posted By: CT8 How has the engine been maintained before the previous 3 oil changes? Not sure, bought it with 196,000 on it. I mean it does run very well, so I am assuming it has been maintained reasonably well.

Originally Posted By: Char Baby Originally Posted By: ZZman try a product called engine restore. DO NOT use RESTORE! If you're blowing oil past the rings, it's eventually plug your catalytic converter. Switch to a bit heavier oil and go back to using regular oil and not synthetic. And as...

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno The Lucas will prolly not help. But freeing the rings might... It's a 4 banger right? So full can of BG109 in the crankcase and pull the plugs. Big shot of Break-Free gun solvent in each cylinder. Re-install plugs and let it sit overnight. Fire it up and drive it...

Conventional was also a thought I had. I may try that. What is everyone's overall thoughts on oil additives? I know I have read some very negative perspectives about them on this board. My father-in-law has had a little success with the Lucas Oil Treatment in terms of stopping leaks, does it...

Hey all, I am driving a 2003 Civic EX with 225,000 miles on it and I am currently burning about 3/4 of a quart every 1500 miles. I have been using 5W-30 full synthetic for my last three oil changes. I have used Mobil 1 HM, Castrol, and Quaker State. My question is what can I do to slow down the...

My civic uses 3.7 quarts and my wife's corolla uses 4.4 quarts, I use 0W-30 in mine and 0W-20 in hers...I pour the extra back into my "frankenbrew" bottle and use in my car once I have enough. And no, synthetic oil doesnt go bad...

Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje Take a screwdriver(don't tell anyone) and drive the seals out from the top. Use oil on the new seal to facilitate installation. Clutch! Got them off, everything buttoned up and good to go, thank you!

I am in the process of replacing my valve cover gasket and plug tube gaskets and i am having a very difficult time getting the old plug tube gaskets off the valve cover...its on a 2003 1.7 liter vtec civic ex. Thanks in advance

Originally Posted By: David1 Great Oil filters.. I dunno why Honda went with the AO2.. Well I guess they did it to save $.. The A01s are great.. Have you tried the HAMP Synergy ? They are basically the same as the A01s... Some will say better. Just purchased a HAMP for my Civic's upcoming...

Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010 I'm in fl and run 10w30 year round. The real question is, are you willing to do the changes? If yes, then why not, it could make for easier starting on really cold mornings. If you don't want to worry about it, m1 AFE 0w-30 would be a good option...