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Weight is set by the valving in the rack's pinion housing. Excess backpressure from thick cold fluid can make it feel heavier (you might notice this on a cold morning) but there's not really anything you can do to make it lighter. The M1 is a good choice.

I leave hoses alone unless they show signs of degradation or damamge from clamps cutting in. They last a long time provided the car is not overheating and coolant is replaced at proper intervals. I recently replaced one on my 2000 Holden with 235,000 km because the clamp was cutting in a bit...

MB/Daimler are worried about flammability and HF formation. Meanwhile SAE and most other OEMs insist it's safe after multiple quantitative risk assessments. Remains to be seen how it will play out in the real world. It is definately much harder to ignite than HCs. Here's a presentation with the...

Even a plain old API SN 10w-30 is around $30 here, antifreeze is 30-40 for 4 litres, dexron III around the same price, etc. I get a little jealous reading of Americans paying $1/quart at wallmart! $70-80 is fairly average for quality full synthetics here. Good to see some thinner stuff finally...

Decent pair of vise grips will do the job too.

Originally Posted By: dailydriver OUT; Ravenol MTF-2 IN; Good ol' reliable Red Line D4 Despite what the concensus on here is about an ATF being incapable of protecting a manual gearbox's bearings and gears, I have spoken to many people who actually rebuild these specific transmissions...

Originally Posted By: MolaKule undertow, If your temps don't come down to reasonable levels, you might want to use this fluid. Redline 10 cSt ATF JHZR2 suggested an alternative fluid in an earlier post. Cheers, that would work well. I can find Redline D4 locally, but not the high temp...

Difficult to get a shield in there, but I could wrap the exposed parts of the rack with reflective wrap (thermotec or similar). This would reduce the radiative heat, but it's still gonna be hot down there. I've decided to just play it safe and grab a small tube and fin trans cooler (Hayden...

This is probably why it gets so hot; if you look closely you can spy the steering rack pinion housing hiding next to the header collector! These are factory headers fitted to HSV (Holden performance) models. Engine bay could do with a wash, I know...

I measured 80C with an IR thermometer after a 20 minute leasurely drive around town in 25C ambients. The headers do run quite close to the steering rack. Would get well over 100C on the track. Here's some info from a magazine article (also plenty of independant reports of problems on forums)...

I have a Holden Commodore with the LS1 V8 (similar to US Pontiac GTO) which I'm planning to take on some track days. These cars are known for boiling the PS fluid on track days and even melting the plastic reservoirs. The factory cooler is just a loop of pipe, and isn't up to the task on the...

My LS1 Holden is now 14 years old, still runs well and doesn't feel that old. I intend to drive it till about 20 years old, at which point things like power steering hoses, AC hoses, ALL the coolant hoses, etc, will be going bad. I'm sure the LS1 and T56 will still be fine, but the plastics...

Rust will be your biggest problem. Even in warmer drier climates it's not really realistic to plan for a vehicle to last 40 years IMO, although it would be possible to do with a simple vehicle with good parts availability. Not worth getting into stuff like cryo treating etc. No matter how well...

Average age of the car fleet in Germany is only 8 years. That Veedub has done pretty well but is past its design life; time to offload it while it's still running IMO. They aren't really designed for long-term maintainability these days.

Originally Posted By: spasm3 So how is this new refigerant safer than the propane/isobutane mixes that came out as r-12 replacements? 1234yf has much higher ignition energy, higher LFL, lower burning velocity and heat of combustion. See here from some interesting graphs...

The drier will probably remove the bitterant. They do a good job of removing the mercaptan stink agent from hydrocarbons.

Originally Posted By: hoosierrun Originally Posted By: jetmech1 Originally Posted By: Shannow jetmech1, great post, I concur with your assessment. Thanks. I said I wasn't going to post beyond this, but I'm going to have to break my own rule. Why is important. I just looked up the MSDS of...

Originally Posted By: dailydriver My T56 actually shifted the BEST with this stuff in it, BUT, everyone on here swears up and down that it just cannot protect the gears and bearings as well as any thin(ner) MTL, despite their lead tech/tribologist Dave (and his company) claiming the D4 DOES...

They don't, and GM sells rebottled Dexron III (p/n 88861800) for these applications. I'm not sure why Dex 6 isn't recommended, because Dex3 shears down to Dex6 viscosity or less pretty quickly anyway, but there's probably a reason. In Australia Castrol Transmax Z is a popular choice for the...

How hard do you run this truck? You could probably get away with it if you're not beating on it. FWIW Castrol also claim their Transmax Z ATF (rebottled Transynd) offers GL4 levels of gear protection, but who knows really. Phosphorus-amine additives can give AW and EP protection as well as...