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Originally Posted By: cmills My problem is getting the PDF into text format. Do you know how to do that on a mac? This is a pointless suggestion if you absolutely need to have it in text format, but if your just looking to post the pdf, then you can open the pdf in the preview program in os x...

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim I'm definitely not in the expertise of using additives for prolonged periods of time. Sorry i guess that post was misleading,the only additive i was really referring to besides the additive packs already added to base oils off the shelf was the kreen that you had...

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim Amsoil for long intervals, I would use PU or even just PP for anything like 3-4K miles. No need to change the oil at 1,500 one just an oil cleanup. Maybe if you were using some aggressive additives like Kreen. If you used PU for 3,000/3 months for 3 oil changes...

Originally Posted By: 99SolaraSLE Originally Posted By: ltslimjim I'd recommend something like Amsoil after you clean up. IMO, PU will clean it up faster and Amsoil will keep you there within reason. ADDED: But, if you choose to stick to 3,000 intervals after the change. I'd personally just...

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim I'd recommend something like Amsoil after you clean up. IMO, PU will clean it up faster and Amsoil will keep you there within reason. ADDED: But, if you choose to stick to 3,000 intervals after the change. I'd personally just recommend Mobil1 AFE 0w-30. If you go...

Yea, regardless of the route i take for cleaning now, i am deffinately going to use that longer filter(probably the Bosch)and a good synthetic for really frequent intervals. picking the synthetics a whole 'nother mess. I was originally thinking penzoil ultra. Then royal purple but that seems to...

Originally Posted By: wiswind I saw them still in place in your pictures, so I knew what you intended. I saw the tar on the sides of them, and that required a bit more rubbing to remove, kind of like the underside of the valve covers. The deposits elsewhere wiped right off. You would be better...

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim ^Good post, nice points and basic method. ...but spark plug tubes...he removed them, so, uh??? Well Sorry if i get the proper terms mixed up, I removed the spark plug tube(rubber)but not the cylinder/tube thats actually welded to the engine that the...

Originally Posted By: 99SolaraSLE I know you were speaking of my thread, but come on that doesnt accompany anything First off let me say i dont know what word i was meaning to type that the auto-correct turned into accompany in the quote above,i think it was meant to say come on that ur pics...

Sorry left this out of the above post, but on my thread with the same topic i just made a post seeking help for cleaning inside and out to get everythig ready for the new gasket before i put the valve cover back on, anyone with any ideas your input would be appreciated.

Originally Posted By: kschachn To accompany another thread, here is a picture of under the valve cover of my '99 Sienna engine. A steady diet of synthetic oil changed out at a relatively short OCI (approx 6000 miles). At 155,000 the engine looked like this...

got a new felpro gasket set before i had the cover off. Now that the cover is off, Can anyone give any recommendations as far as cleaning the following: 1.) the top of the inside of the valve cover 2.) everthing/all the insides underneath where the valve cover was,toyota says use diesel?(or...

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim Cover it with anything that gives a nice fit around where the cover usually sits(as long as the material in question won't tear and fall down into your engine itself). I'm assuming you are taking the valve cover to have the mating surfaces cleaned? Bingo. Thanks...

I have a friend at o'reileys here, do you think its safe to have bring the valve cover over there leaving the insides exposed like that, with the hood open( cant close the hood with the way i have moved things out of the way to take the cover off) and possibility of wind blowing bits of dirt and...

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim Actually, it doesn't look that bad. Maybe at 75% of where it should be or so. IMO, running PP or PU for several 3,000 mile intervals would work for you in 3 oil changes or so. If you want to clean even faster, start the cleaning and then look into kreen for 2...

Sorry the edit timed out faster than i thought. Heres a couple pics. I have the link here as well to take you to the page with all the pics i took under the cover and to see them at full resolution. Thanks y'all. Link to whole set at full res.: Link to whole set of pics from under cover at full...

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim Yeah, glad you got the radiator hose out of the way, no worries there the residue will burn off. Just be sure to top off your coolant level once the car gets to operating temp again after putting everything back together. Can't wait for the picks and way to hang...

Originally Posted By: kschachn Yeah I hope my comments didn't seem mean, I didn't intend it that way. I own a '99 Sienna with the same 1MZ-FE engine so I'm interested in what you find out, even if just for curiosity sake. No worries, didn't take it that way at all. I completely understood and...

Originally Posted By: wiswind You won't get a huge amount of coolant coming out of that location as it is one of the highest points in the system. The only thing about coolant causing a problem around there is it might not make your belts happy. You have the power steering and alternator belts...