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Originally Posted by MCompact I've found the BMW/Mini CBS OCIs to be perfectly adequate. After seeing this, I agree! Originally Posted by Gene K Looks like it was changed a little early. Other than that looks good. I don't see any obvious reason to go a 5W-40 which could increase startup...

Didn't consider we'd do this, but possibly buying out our lease. Sent in a UOA on the dealer changed oil (maintenance included) to get sense of engine health. The CBS oil change intervals for us have been 7500, 7700, and 8000 miles. Had I known we were going to buy out, I would probably have...

CVT is great. I've grown to love it and it certainly helps on the amount of driving I do. I just jump in the legacy if I'm feeling the need to drive manual. Really really smooth transmission, happy with the car.

Here is my recent UOA. Doesn't seem that bad, other than viscosity, which was expected. Been using my free maintenance plan up to this point. Will probably switch to RT6. No way I'm going 7k miles on this engine, 5k max.

Same here, my two Subaru's are hard to read. I usually check after it's sat overnight on very flat ground. Any slope at all and it will read off.

Originally Posted By: sicko So years ago someone on this forum contacted Subaru and eventually got an answer that Subaru uses a 0w-20 oil as their factory fill. Which makes sense b/c all the Subaru factory fill UOAs show oil that's way too thin to be Xw-30 weight oil that sheered down heavily in...

Here is the first change in the new WRX. I'll keep an eye on these especially, since it's a DI engine, and a turbo at that. So far so good on the fuel dilution on this report.

I know this is a couple years old, but I was wondering if anyone knew if Toyota did anything about this? I recently rented a Scion TC and it did this exact same thing, and my mom's brand new Rav4 does this as well. I have never had an engine rattle on startup so quickly than this 2AR. It can...

Hmm interesting. I've emailed Ryan but he's on vacation still. I'll ask him what he thinks. The UOAs for 3 to 5 changes back seem consistent with MS5K though right?

Well, got the VOA on the oil. Curious where my Moly and Calcium is coming from then, because this is the oil I have been using for 4 or 5 changes. I put both analysis on one post so it's easier to see.

Posting from my tablet. I use the full throttle trick with my subaru, but wasn't aware it applied to most fuel injected cars. I did read the Mazda does that too, so I will use that trick. I always pulled the fuse for the sienna. I always use oem filters for all the family cars. The Mazda...

I have two engines in the family cars that seem to have dry start issues after sitting for a little while (a couple days). A 2002 Sienna that has 265k miles on it, and a 2004 Mazda3 2.3L that I had to change the engine on due to hydrolock. The remanufactured Mazda3 engine always had dry starts...

Asked Blackstone about my sample and they said the additive packages could have changed. I will be sending in virgin oil for analysis and will post up results.

Ok then I never had Mobil clean in here. Always dark grey bottles. Always been Mobil super. Added the make up at 5k miles.

Is that likely to happen? I feel like the UOA is consistent with my engine's history, so I don't know if that is the case here. Who knows though. What was the add. pack for the SM Mobil 5K? The Autozone bottles may be old enough to be SM.

I dunno what to say. They have been Mobil 5k for awhile now. The may have been old bottles I got from the auto zone deal awhile, or they could have been from Walmart, but they were all Mobil 5k.

Originally Posted By: KCJeep Great report IMO. TBN at 1.6 and the Ti is now showing less than 1/3 it's original concentration. That and the shear (although not bad for 10K) would have me believing you have reached the prudent ceiling on this oil for your rig. Impressive. Does plain ol' Mobil...

Ran the oil longer still again, and this report seems ok as well. Amazing things these newer engines and oils. I think I'll cap it around here though. Seems good enough.

I'll try 10 or 11k this time, but if I wanted to try to go to 15k, I would have to add another quart at 10k. Wouldn't that skew results some?

I'm willing to take the OCI out further because I'm very curious as well. The cost of the UOA doesn't particularly bother me, I'm saving money not doing oil changes at 3k anyway. I'm almost out of my stash of oil. I service 6 cars at home for the family and we all drive a lot, so the 150 quarts...