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Oh well, I'm not going to keep the car more than another year anyway.

Originally Posted By: ChiTDI You received a lot of quality reponse in this thread. Pleasse post the solution so we all benefit. I'll be sure to post the results when I change oils. This oil is pretty fresh though, so it won't be for a while. I haven't heard the noise in a few days, but I've...

I'll change oil and filter brand after the next change, probably both to Motorcraft. Its definitely not injectors I'm hearing, those sound like a fast "click click click" and the "rod bearing" noise I'm hearing is a deeper clunk. Again, it doesn't do it every cold startup, only when it's sat...

Originally Posted By: addyguy A 2010, even with 91k, should NOT have rod knock problems. Just try a different oil - the PYB suggestion is a good one - lots of moly/boron in it, tends to quiet engines. Again, what is PYB? Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en Pennzoil conventional with Motorcraft...

Originally Posted By: Bluestream Are you sure its not piston slap? Many newer engines have short piston skirts, and will make noise when cold. Valve train noise (with the exception of lifters) usually does not go away when warmed up. I'm pretty sure it's not piston slap, sounds like one rod...

I have a 2010 Fusion with the 2.5L I-4 with 91k miles. The engine notoriously has a noisy valvetrain, and that is not what I am concerned about. I drove the car only twice in the last two weeks, both times startup was after a week of not running and temps were about 25F. Upon startup, I had a...

Bismic, I just bought 4 gallons of PBE after you posted it was on sale at FTE. I'll give it a try and probably do two changes with a UOA on the second one. I'll post the results when I get it, might be a year though. I'm needing a 5w-40 to make my injectors happier on cold starts, been running...

I've been running Mobil 1 15w-40 for the last 4-5 changes since rebuilding my truck and would like to go synthetic. Which of these three seems to be the most recommended? I've heard recently about other people having increased wear with Scheaffer's, so I'm really trying to decide between Mobil...

Originally Posted By: Stephen M. It is not the CJ rated oil, it is the over active EGR valve and cycling (cleaning) of the Particulate filter in the exhaust system. The oil loads with heavy carbon products and without the CJ level of oil the changes would become even more frequent. The...

Thats about all the info I have on it, I just wondered if anyone else had heard of the same issue.

Quest, forgot to mention, the problem was their UOAs were showing high bearing material content, rod and main bearings. MGregoir, isn't Mobil Delvac dino oil? I'm running Delvac 15w40 in my 6.0L F250 and it sure doesn't have a synthetic price tag on it.

I was wondering if anyone has more info on this topic. It seems the new low emissions stuff isn't holding up as well as the previous spec. My dad drives truck for a certain large shipping company with brown trucks.. They use Delo 400 in all their trucks and do the 15 gallon oil change every 20k...

I read it works best with Dino oil, should I do a run with regular oil and Auto-Rx then switch to RTS?

Thanks for the input, I'll be going with RTS 5w-40 on the next oil change, however I've never been a fan of engine flush agents so I won't be doing that. The car has mostly highway miles on it, 160k of them, and the oil has been full synthetic for the past 70-80k so I'm not worried about sludge.

Thanks for the input. Anyone else have thoughts?

Spec oil for the engine is 5w-30 with 10w-30 listed for warmer climates. The engine has 160k miles and isn't as smooth sounding as it used to be. I've been running Walmart's SuperTech 10w-30 high mileage formula for the past 50k miles and wondering if it would hurt anything to use Rotella-T...

In those temps I'd go with Mobile 1 5w40 synthetic for turbo diesels. If you want to save a little go with Rotella Synthetic 5w40, thats what I'll be using when I go synthetic at my next change.