Search results

It's not a mechanical problem. It's a lack of lubrication. If your oil doesn't cling to the cylinder bores, some piston designs will tend to "twist" in the bore more than others, creating the slap. older piston designs with long piston skirts only mask the lack of lubrication. It's unfortunate...

PROBLEM SOLVED... Seriously this is a cheap fix. I've had multiple slappers. People always seem to think it's incurable or the pistons need to be replaced or re-ringed. I laugh in their general direction. I've experimented with this, and it's an oil problem. Both of my engines spec'd 5w30, so...

I just had standard maxlife 5W-30 in my 193K mile Z28, and had to change it after 2800 miles because SOMETHING happened to it. Something mysterious. I changed my oil a week before going on vacation. It was a 12 hour drive each way with lots of 60 to 100 mile trips in between. By the time I got...

Originally Posted By: 440Magnum I don't see how ANY oil could have an effect on piston slap noise. Who knows...maybe it's the magic of surface tension, or perhaps it's the properties of molecular uniformity. Whatever it is, synthetic exacerbates piston slap in my car on a cold startup. I ran...

Odd...synthetic has the exact opposite effect on my piston slap. It becomes completely unbearable. The only oil that I've found that works 100% of the time is Dino Valvoline 5w30. Obviously I haven't tried every single boutique brand and grade on the market, but I have gone through every major...

No need to get so exotic and scientific...Dino Valvoline 5W30 cured my LS1 piston slap permanently. I used M1 a couple times due to the hype, but it sucked like no other...noisy as [censored]. I've got 188K on the odo, and it can sit for 4 days, but still not even a tick of piston slap. I've...

My experience with all synthetics has been negative (especially M1). They all "caused" piston slap in my engine. I wouldn't use M1 even if it was free. Almost all dino oil ran much quieter. I started using Valvoline just this year, and it has been the quietest by far. I'll keep using it until...

Kendall made for some nasty piston slap in my 187K mile LS1 Camaro(even back before I turned 100K). I stuck with the 5w30 as always, but Valvoline completely silenced the noise. Other brands worked fairly decent, but there hasn't been a single tap since I started using Valvoline. Can't explain...

my '98 Z28 came with a magnetic plug. I always make a point to clean the magnet, and when the car was newer, it picked up a fair amount of small iron particles. Like a little black cotton swab. Now that it's got 180K miles, I hardly see any at all. Why GM used the magnetic plug while others...

I drained the gas from a '57 Dodge that had been sitting for 30 years in a barn. The smell was so foul that the radiator & sheet metal fab shop down the street wouldnt even steam clean it for us. Not sure how to describe the smell but it had an eerily aromatic waft that I've never experienced...

http://www.toyo.com.au/tech_info9p2.html I think what you're describing is shown on the 3rd pic from the top.

we have a '69 coronet R/T with a 727 and our trans guy said Dexron. I trust that since he worked for chrysler. I think you should just pull the pan and change the filter. If anything looks dirty or soupy from 15 years of moisture, then flush it...if not, you're probably just giving it a well...

Found this info... http://www.powerhomebiz.com/News/022008/stamford-tires.htm they are likely the same basic tire construction, but possibly made in different plants with different compounds (have to check the UTQG plant codes to see if they're the same). I'd personally go with the Sumitomo...

Sounds typical of valve guide seals to me...I've had good luck with max life. Seems to soften the seals a bit and decrease oil smoke. It may not be due to lack of maintenance, but the fact that it's 20 years old would suggest that the rubber parts may have gotten a little "crispy" over the...

My 1998 Z28 has 169K on it and does tend to get the well known piston slap noise on some cold startups. In the past couple years, I've tried about 8 different types of conventional and synthetic oils to see which ones help the noise the most (all have been 5-30). What I've noticed is that...

HOLY CRÊPE! The green panel filter for my Z28 is $80.50 well, if Peugeot thinks they're good, then umm...wait, we better find out if the Renault or Citroën teams are using them. If two out of three French guys like them, then maybe the rest of the world just hasn't caught on yet.

I do the same thing with my LS1 as well. I've used several types of filter, but I always pre-charge it. Some of them do take almost a pint. I guess it depends on how much space is taken up internally with filter media, end caps, bypass valves, and anti-drainback valves. Anyway, I've never seen...

Assuming an engine wasn't designed, tested, and assembled by Stevie Wonder, there are a few key factors (besides maintenance) that aid in long engine life. 1) Inline engines have inherent durability 2) Low horsepower output (i.e. non-turbos) 3) Low revving engines (higher gearing) 4) Steady...

I've worked around tires for years and this is a classic symptom of tire separation. It's usually visible when watching the tread when the tire is spinning. There have been rare occasions, in my experience, where the separation may be barely visible...even invisible. I would suggest taking it...

loose motor mount bolt although that wouldn't explain why it feels like it's holding a gear. If you're getting "engine braking" then it's a tranny issue. If not, you may be looking at some binding brakes. I'm assuming the front brake pads since they may have had them off during the axle...