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I should have also noted that I changed from PPE to RL and flushed the RL before changing for this fill and sample, so hopefully any crosstalk between the PPE and RL is minimized. What's a way to maximize the distance on this oil? Can I use TBN (BN) to get an indication on the "life" remaining?

I can still send a sample to blackstone if that makes you people happy. I haven't dumped all the oil yet - just took a sample for this test. I'll see if they will do a TAN to see how the ethanol is affecting the oil.

PPE viscosity went down 15% RL viscosity went down 9% I don't think enough ethanol is in there to degrade the esters or we'd see more wear.

So, I did about as good of an A/B comparison as I could with my BMW M2. I used the same fuel from the same stations the entire changes, which comprised of E63 ethanol and mixing in Shell 93 V Power every 3rd or 4th tank. I drove the same routes and had 1 track day in both used oil analysis...

Change early and often is a great strategy, especially during a warranty period. The only other option I know of is Redline 5w50 but maybe after warranty expires. What's the reason for the Amsoil additive? Do you run ethanol?

Random derail: Is boutique oil with higher virgin oxidation levels like Motul 300V and Redline not advisable to run for seal integrity in BMW? Or is that an issue that occurs over decades?

Looking at oil-club.ru analysis, the 5w30 contains more mPAO and PAO, as evidenced by the pour point, HTHS and good NOACK level.

These engines run pretty lean. Low 13s, high 12s AFR at WOT. In the winter so far I've been running mostly Shell 93 but put E85 in the last couple tanks. I have yet to put the Redline oil in and since I got the 5w40 I'm waiting for temps to get above 50f. I'll be sure to post the used oil...

Try a good fuel injector cleaner like Redline SI-1. Otherwise keep hammering!

Looks good. Going to a 5w-50 of the same oil will be unlikely to help with "wear numbers" and result in less performance and efficiency.

Is it this? https://www.motul.com/en-US/products/13311?product=MOTUL+300V+COMPETITION+5W-40 Just curious because you listed 4.1cP and the TDS says 4.0.

FWIW I use Redline DCTF and it works great. Anything Bimmerworld uses is worthy in my BMW.

I used some of the mentioned oils in this thread but ended up settling on Amsoil 15w40 Signature Series. It runs way quieter and smoother in my 160k mi swapped Duramax - probably because it's higher viscosity and beefy add pack compared to the others.

Valvoline Restore and Protect is a much higher quality oil than OP used here. It could have been used to help the original engine before rebuild, alas, here we are analyzing an oil I wouldn't use in my lawnmower being used in a notoriously high maintenance BMW twin turbo V8.

I'd go with the 5w40 or 5w50.

So, did you pay for two tests on the same used oil? If so, thanks for that! Helps us understand the variance and variables for each lab. Too bad you didn't get the GC analysis but hey, the oil is in spec so no worries about fuel contamination. Great choice on Redline 5w50. I would get another...

3000 km I'm guessing. Copper is higher than I'd like to see. XCESS is OK for DI but I'd go with something like Redline or 300V with more ZDDP.

Oil going into the engine is typically not at 100C operating temperature. No way a modern oil will shear enough for you to discern through pouring, unless it is full of fuel.

I love how you ask for the difference and then just say, "NO!" Here's another resource that took me 2 minutes to find that completely redeems the "ignorant AI" search result: https://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/vw_motor_oil_specifications_explained.php What AI got right: - Oil grade...

The guy bought a 700hp pickup truck that cant pick up. Probably not his worst decision to get a used oil analysis lol