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No recalibration nor is it a false spike, the FTIR measures the c=o peak for oxidation and as you know it's also present in the ester oils. With a good reference we get good readings. Bad references which are caused by mixing oils, adding additives, or bastardized mixes of oils all give...

Don't know about chloramine but the chloride limit it 40 ppm. John is right, you don't want the water in there any longer than it takes to flush and drain. Make sure you got your heater set to hot so it circulates through the core.

You need the boil protection from the antifreeze and its anti-corrosion additives. Pure water can have a pH as low as 5.5 which is acidic. You want the pH to be around 8.5 or above. Don't wait to correct this problem or you will be sorry!

The cleaner you used most likely contained ammonium citrate. If it isn't rinsed throughly (at least 4 good flushes with water) when the coolant is added the pH goes up (especially with conventional coolants) and ammonia evolves. We see this all the time and the only cure it to drain and flush...

Hi Dan, The official recommendation for severe duty is 15,000 miles, 2500 gallons, or 300 hours but this can be extended up to 25,000 miles if it is considered light duty (i.e. 80,000 GVW or less, greater than 7 MPG, and less than 20% idle time. Before I was to make a recommendation I would...

For comparison I checked our database for C12 engines with less than 15000 miles on oil and here is what I found: Fe - 20 Cr - 1 Al - 2 Cu - 14 Lead - 2 Sn - 1 Si - 6 Na - 5 K - 12 Soot - 42 Visc - 14.6 cSt 100C For samples with more than 20000 miles Fe - 31 Cr - 2 Al - 2 Cu - 6 Lead - 3 Sn...

After getting a question from a fellow member it occurred to me that some may have misunderstood this data to be from the Orbahm test, it is not. The data from UOA's and my intention was to show the viscosity values we typically see.

The biggest reason I hear from truckers is because it is available everywhere. It's a good oil but I don't see any evidence that it is better than other diesel oils.

The best penetrating oil I've found is a product called Rust Reaper. I've never had much luck with ones I've tried but this stuff works very well.

I agree with Steve, mineral spirits or paint thinner is cheap and fairly safe. It would be my choice. You might want to check the flash point before using it in the washer.

I would use the JD 15W40 +50. It's a diesel engine oil and should not be judged on the way it performs in gasoline engines. We have a lot of customers using this oil and it works well. You should also use the JD filters. If you do have problems it can eliminate warranty issues caused by using...

Yep - more chance for corrosion and less boil protection. I was just wondering why someone would do that.

What does Amsoil use for SCA that you won't ever have to add?

We've processed over 21,000 coolant samples and the only ones that are brown are rustr or they have been overheated severly (not likely in a automobile unless it has a water-cooled turbo).

I'm with you Do - people look at the results of one test and draw conclusions that are just plain wrong. Some oil dealers capitalize on this by using numbers as proof that their products are better when in many cases the test isn't even appropriate. I'm not accusing anyone of doing this but...

My point exactly Bul!

The last data posted above does not consider seperate blends, only brand and 15W40.

Well actually we have 538683 separate samples of oil from which to draw data. Since you asked here are some numbers: IMHO The Orbahm Shear Test does not tell how well the oil performs in actual use, nor would I try to draw any conclusions from this data. There are too many factors that are...

I didn't think you could by leaded gas anymore?

Here is the report: [ May 19, 2005, 07:24 AM: Message edited by: Stinky Peterson ]