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VW makes it hard to do this. If you jack up on the pinch welds, there's really no place to put the jack stands. On my 09 accord there was a beefy jack point right at the front midpoint of the car. Regardless, there is really no reason to do it now as it's almost a statistical impossibility...

Well i jacked up the other side and it was doing the same thing so that tells me it's transmission related due to one tire being on the ground.

Yeah, that initial shhh is the pads touching the rotors. The noise at the end, i was thinking the transmission too seeing how the other side is on the ground. I might try to lift both tires and check again.

Car is quiet when driving, just decided to check and make sure the new caliper was moving freely, and the wheel bearing hadn’t become toast from the seized caliper. I replaced everything on that corner, caliper, rotor, pads. Rotor was warped and car was shaking like hell. The pads were also...

That definitely not it, it spins smooth until it hits clear resistance and kinda growls a bit. I feel like it might be because of the mechanical slack from the other tire being on the ground, but I'm no mechanic. Just waiting for one to confirm.

Replaced a seized right front caliper at 91k. Decided to spin the wheel to make sure all the heat didn't cook the caliper. It doesn't have any play at 12 and 6 or 9 and 3. However, it will spin smooth and then hit sudden resistance. Car is in neutral, only one of the tires is in the air. Is...

Yeah just rotors and pads. Without the lug bolts holding the rotor flush to the hub, there is a bit of play and wobble. That's why i was worried I'd caused damage if the pads were clamping down onto a slightly misaligned (or maybe more than slightly) rotor. It is what it is. From every brake...

Yep replaced the rotors and thoroughly cleaned the hubs. Just made the idiotic mistake of pumping the brakes before i had the tire on, and the lug bolts had the rotor fully seated and stable against the hub.

Yeah but the fluid comes out right, I assume it doesn’t transfer any force against the piston. I literally gorilla pumped the brakes like 10 plus times with the car running while the rotor was probably a little of center because the wheel bolts weren’t there to clamp it flat against the hub. I...

I did the rear brakes on my 17 Passat 1.8t. For some idiotic reason I pumped the brakes before lowering the car to the ground and torquing down the bolts. The rotor was only held on with a set screw when I did this. Now obviously, the caliper and pads were on, I’m not that dumb. I noticed it...

Looks like I got the last of em since they stopped production. Hopefully the quality didn’t go down since they were bought by the private equity douches who are now probably headed to a federal (PMITA) prison.

I put some on a car about 4 years ago and no complaints so far. I realize that’s only about 40k miles or so though.

Nice score!

It makes senses that runout would cause a vibration. Can runout also lead to warped rotors eventually?

Not so with mine.

I put some on all four corners of a 10 year old BMW a few years ago, and zero complaints of noise or vibrations due to warped rotors. I just bought some again for another car that needs rear brakes. Anyone have any luck with these?

I put some C-TEK rotors and pads from rock auto on all four corners of a 10 year old BMW a few years ago. No complaints of any noise or vibrations or anything. I guess that is a win.

Noob question, but aren’t the lug bolts bolted into the rotor hat? How does that affect the actual friction part of the rotor? I tighten in a cross cross pattern and usually get it Guden tight with the tire iron. Don’t think I’ve ever had a rotor related problem due to this.

Should i torque my lug nuts lmao?

Ordered some new ones just in case (VW N91168901). Anyone know what the torque spec is on these? I keep seeing 66ft lbs + 90 degree turn. I read that a 90 degree turn past the initial torque indicates a TTY bolt. I'm replacing the rears because the car is vibrating pretty good when braking. They...