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That is odd, you'd think with a totally clean carb and throttle plate in the right position you'd see some response from the idle mix screws, as in screwing them in all the way really should stall the motor. I tried one of those on my old 4.3 V6 (original was a Quadrajet, but the 4160 was used...

The only thing I'd be concerned about here is not the oil per se but the fuel dilution....however the person generating the report wasn't concerned so I guess its common with DI engines. Given that, I might do more frequent than specified oil changes.....

They have been in business since 1962 from what I was able to find out, I have only used their trailer tires but never had a problem with any of them, usually I replace them at 6-8 years, or whenever I start seeing a lot of cracks in the tread. If you want a good low price bias ply trailer tire...

They were a popular second tier tire, I recall their mascot was a Rhinoceros and their ad line was "Rhino Tough Tires"

How about Kenda? I have used their trailer tires for years with good results.

I got 2 codes on my 2007 Jeep for evaporative emissions leaks, large leak and small leak, replaced the leak detection pump and filter & that cured it. I got the P013c code for slow response from rich to lean, downstream O2 sensor, found a leak in the exhaust system near the O2 sensor. I got one...

Wow watched that vid, it is an amazing amount of hand labor. I know that now trailer hitches are actually part of the frame on some vehicles, like late model 4Runners and Tacomas and I have seen the same on Grand Cherokees and Dodge Durangos, the factory hitch actually replaces the rear most...

Those (VW and Honda) were easy because, they were adjusted cold. On my '82 Mazda 2,000 cc I had to set then hot, which was a real pita, too hot for your fingers. Not sure why but that's what some manufacturers insist on. I have an old GM marine 4.3 in my boat and it has nice roller hydraulic...

Just for the heck of it I pulled out my old 1980 Honda Civic owners manual and it said to adjust the valves every 15,000 miles. When I had air cooled VWs the book said 6,000 miles.

I see that they are still using adjustable solid lifters, just like my 1980 Civic 1335cc! I wonder if anyone even adjusts them, I used to do when recommended in the shop manual.

neither one of those things was a "good" thing. how about giving drivers who keep vehicles 10 years or longer a tax break, due to preserving resources by not buying another vehicle? Now that's a revolutionary idea.

I'd like to see what would happen if the question of regulating motor vehicles vis a vis gas vs hybrid vs EV was put to a public referendum. What would the majority of people in the country say, vs what our representatives wind up doing. That would be interesting. The big push to EV when most...

I had 30 gallons of bad gas last season and it was stabilized 89 octane E10 that was only about 8 months old, so I did not suspect the gas at first. What helped me figure it out was running the boat on an outboard tank with fresh E0 fuel. All season it would not plane, would stall at idle, etc...

I have used Mobil 1 5w30 in a Briggs and Stratton Vanguard in a 5,000 watt unit for years with no problems. Usually if we have an outage they don't last long, but during Superstorm Sandy I ran it for 14 days, about 12 hrs a day. Oil consumption is minimal so I guess I got a good one (made in...

I used the regular Echo Power Blend for years and never had that happen, I also used a generic 2 stroke oil from Ace Hardware lol and same thing. In my Toro/Suzuki 2 stroke snowblower I use full syn TCW3 as specified by Toro and I had the muffler off a few years ago and it all looked like new...

I have a 2007 Grand Cherokee 5.7 which is at about 136,000 miles, run on Mobil 1 5w20 since I bought it with about 25,000 miles back in 2009. Paid about half the sticker price so a good deal. Still pulls like a freight train, engine is nice and quiet. The only mechanical problem I have had with...

Stellantis released a TSB I think last year, about this problem, that affects the intake cams and followers of the PUG (Pentastar Upgrade) that addressed the wear problem. New parts also. The problem on these is different than the problem on the pre-PUG engines.

The only Toyota I have owned was a 1989 Corolla GTS 1600 Twin Cam, that one LIKED to rev, like to 7,000 easily.

There were a few bad things on the 4.0, that wasn't the worst, the crack prone head in 2000 and 2001, and the addition of 2 mini cats and a main cat, added too much complexity and expense when they need replacing. I like up to 98. Simple old school, no coil packs, etc.

I looked under the hood of a 6th Gen, it gave me a BAADD feeling, like looking under the hood of a late model Bronco. Plastic fittings, hoses and wires everywhere. I would for sure buy a 5th Gen 4 Runner when the time comes, but for now I am sticking with this: 1998 Grand Cherokee 4.0, owned...