That is odd, you'd think with a totally clean carb and throttle plate in the right position you'd see some response from the idle mix screws, as in screwing them in all the way really should stall the motor.
I tried one of those on my old 4.3 V6 (original was a Quadrajet, but the 4160 was used by both OMC and Volvo after Rochester quit building carbs) and had no end of trouble with it. The carb did respond to the idle mix screws but no matter what I did it ran too rich at idle. Carb was brand new BTW. I went back to the old Quadrajet and it actually ran better!
Out of curiosity I took it all apart a few months later. What I found was that the clutch bolts that hold that secondary metering plate on, were loose. A guy on the Holley site bulletin board felt that more fuel was flowing from the secondary side than was supposed to be hence the excessive rich mixture that didn't respond to any of the normal Holley fixes. Put it back together but since it ran so well with the old Quadrajet, I left the Quadrajet on it.
BTW just for information, on a Holley, some fuel is always fed from the secondary bowl to the idle/main system to keep the fuel in that bowl from going bad. Also there is an adjustment for the secondary throttle plates that has to be right on the money.
I am curious if what I learned/fixed cured my Holley problem but will wait till my Q-Jet acts up again to find out.
Last point, when you were watching for idle speed change when adjusting the screws, were you using a separate tach or the dash tach? Dash tachs are really not accurate/sensitive enough for that job, I always use a digital tach, you can see small differences in RPM much easier.