Search results

I used to use used motor oil for my chainsaw way back in the day until my Stihl dealer yelled at me for doing that and have been using chainsaw bar oil ever since.

I'm going to say that shorter intervals, like 3,500 to no more than 4,000 miles, would be better and I pick Liquimoly if cost were no object.

Worst case scenario you have to get the ECU reprogrammed?

Your clunking noise is probably in the sway bar somewhere. Check the end links and center links. I had a bolt come loose on a center link on my Mustang and it took a while for me to figure it out because I wasn't expecting a bolt to come loose.

I think it would be easier getting a donor car with a bad motor and swapping your motor/trans.

^^^the default gap should be around .030" on your spark plug.

It was. I was just looking for a blade for my 1989 F-Series and saw that and bought it on the spot. The dealer was a go cart place so mowers were just a sideline. The place was in Mechanicsville, VA next door to Bruce Auto Parts junkyard. I got lucky on that. My wife yelled at me for...

I have a 1996 Lawn Boy Gold Series push mower that I bought new in 1999 with the F-Series two stroke motor. I run it about 10 hours a year now since I mainly use my landfill-scavenged Toro Super Recycler (2007) with a new in 2023 Briggs 725EXi motor. The Toro gets about 20 hours per year and...

When I had my 2007 96" Twin Cam (all stock) I used Valvoline VR1 20W-50 in the motor, Rotella T4 15W-40 in the primary and Harley branded "Formula+" oil in the transmission.

1999 Chaparral I/O Mercruiser outdrive with a Chevy 4.3 motor: Five quarts Rotella T4 15W-40, Champ PF47 filter. Outdrive: Mercruiser straight SAE90 gear oil.

My wife's 2018 Cherokee has bolts and those stud alignment thingys that Astro14 linked seem pretty useful. I will order a set next time I do an Amazon order.

My son's beat (Henrico County PD) is on the east side of the county. Maybe he'll have the honor of meeting those kids in the future LOL.

Some of you guys are pretty brave. The highest mileage car I ever bought was my 2000 Mustang GT with 106,000 miles. Usually I buy new.

I would get this MOWER because parts will be cheap and available (MTD product). If I wanted to spend more money then I would get a Toro aluminum deck SUPER Recycler.

It looks like MD is getting as bad as Virginia. My wife bought her 2018 Cherokee in Cockeysville and they destroyed the deal that our local Jeep dealer had in Colonial Heights, VA especially and they didn't charge much for the fees.

I would use Valvoline R&P 5W-30 and change it at 3,000+ to no later than 3,500 or so miles. I don't think these motors are all that inherently bad (I've been wrong before FWIW), but a lot of people don't check oil often enough and they're known for consuming and diluting oil. Also, a lot of...

I had a GM car a long time ago with over 150,000 miles on the original drain plug and it never leaked. You can replace the seal. Plug is under $3 at Rock Auto.

GM had a flop with the Cruze 4 cylinder with all the plastic parts that would eventually leak coolant but I had really good service with mine but it was a 2015 (last year made for that version). I have a 2.0 in my Cadillac and it has a reputation of being a good motor.

Just speculation, but there are so many cheap foreign parts in today's cars that this was bound to happen. These jobs take a lot of skill. The USA/Canadian content has gone way down in the last 15 years.

Blades make a huge difference in fuel consumption. For example, I took a Briggs motor off my FWD Snapper to use on my Snapper with the Hi-Vac blade and it uses about 1/3 more fuel with the high lift blade being the only difference.