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Sorry - that was a “just kidding!” (J/k)

Those gensets are said to still run strong at 2000 hours. If maintained, the engine probably outlasts the electronics.

I don’t think you’ll have trouble getting a few more years out of it. This is a gradual process, and it will be pretty bad before you get misfires, and even then it can go a long time. If it were mine, I’d bump to a 10-30 oil to promote a sturdier film over the wear surface, but it’s really hard...

CVt drive on the go-kart - thats going to be FUN. If I had one as a kid I would likely have never ever gone inside.

I’ll call legit to that. With cap sockets and a ratchet, I’ve come across a couple. And easily truthful for Toyotas if the metal cartridge cap has been overtightened at all. I had to own and service one a few times to realize it was 6-8x harder off after 7500 than it was on.

Sounds possible that the compression release could also be inop if that engine has one.

1. Ride will be smoother. Suspension will be less jittery. Steering will feel less “on rails.” Car will lean a little bit more in aggressive turns. Mpg may ever so slightly increase. 2. As @k1xv mentioned, make sure it clears the brakes 3. Make sure the width and offset are the same or...

OUCH. I mean, I put my oil drain plug on at 65 ft lbs!!! (J/k)

From what I read, the fomoco plugs are manufactured by NGK. I think either would be fine. I also learned that the fomoco plugs are a very high end NGK with precious metals on both tips. The NGK parts line gets a little confusing. I would NOT reuse the rubber boots. I recent post somewhere around...

The top surface is not necessarily flat - it can be pented or domed. If the plug isn’t centered, the “open” end might be facing back into the head.

Thank you for that.

I had a water box vanagon I could never figure out. Later a friend of mine did - erratic relays powering the fuel injector circuit. They would work, then they wouldn’t. If it’s not throwing codes, probing for power wouldn’t be the worst thing to try.

gooloo has had a good name on this forum. I’ve got 2 NOCO 1000A units and they have been good to use. After reading about VIAR compressors, I bought one for each of my kids and then recently one for myself when my old Autozone unit failed in front of Lowes. VIAR is a step up from the average...

Not easily, but if there is grease on the outside of the bearing, it’s less likely to leak out and dry.

My boss is building his 5th (?) house with his own hands. He really likes milwaulkee. I like 12V tools for their fast ease of use, but if I’m doing more than hanging pictures, 18V is needed for oomph. Rigid for me has been a decent compromise between affordability and durability. For light...

Right? The G-forces alone when a car is hit and flips - and you have no basis of gravity to work against in your seat … wheels off the ground? So is everyone inside!

Good deep dive. I was thinking of this when changing 11,000 mile oil in a 150k mile Camry this weekend. There was not one single bit of glitter in the cartridge pleats, unlike my F150 with 88k miles, which had many tiny sparkles everywhere, and startup noise to provide a likely source.

It’s wild that cab-off is now easier than engine-up! I really goofed on that through my f150 ownership - having run a number of wires from front to rear for inverter power, several lighting circuits and a built-in solar charger. If I were to do it again, I would have installed well-marked...

Granted, you do have to follow the rigid registration process to the 100% “T,” but I’ve found them to be honest to their warranty agreement … as long as you performed ALL of the registration steps. They do change their process from time to time … at the moment my local Home Depot does more to...

I’ve used 2 discount tire locations and have found their mount and balance to be consistently more trustworthy than anywhere else I’ve gone. One store here is so well known that people drive here from out of state (an hour) to visit them. I’ve had … I’m going to guess … 5 sets myself, and...