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I’ve never messed with their ceramic type product's. Have always used their original stuff, and they always work perfect every time.

Those 6.7 powerstrokes are known to be very slow in sending pressurized oil through the whole system. The gauge cluster oil pressure gauge is not accurate at all. There are plenty of videos on YouTube that shows this issue. Dave’s Auto center on YouTube has a very good video demonstrating...

As soon as I saw this video on my YouTube feed, the first thing I thought of was: “Oh god, bitog forum will have a fit.” 🍿🍿🍿

All you need is some Quaker state full synthetic 5w30. Can get a 5 quart jug at Walmart for I believe $24. Those 3800’s will run on anything, as long as you change the oil when you should. No need to use 40 weight, or 10w-XX oils.

OEM OEM OEM! Whenever you work on the A/C system, you need all OEM parts, and I mean every single part that goes on the AC system, down to all the rubber O-rings. If you don’t do this, you will most likely be working on the AC system again in the near future. Also, when replacing schrader...

Fellow Vortec owner here. I own the 3/4 Vortec, the 4.3! If the truck still have the original spider poppet style CSFI, it should get the spider MPFI with individual injectors. It’s a direct install, zero modifications needed. Did the MPFI swap to my 4.3 Vortec about a year ago, and she runs...

Supertech brake cleaner is the only brake cleaner I buy. Cheap and works just as good as all the other more expensive brands. Never had issues with ST brake cleaner

People on this forum think they are gonna drive their cars a million miles. Just use 0w20, you’ll easily get way over 300k miles, as long as you change the oil every 5k miles or sooner.

2001 Chevy Blazer 4.3 Vortec 4x4 4L60E. The trans is the original trans that came with the car from the factory. I have the deep pan, not the shallow pan. Did the trans fluid change at 103k miles. Now I have 107k miles. Out: Unknown automatic trans fluid. Fluid looked okay, not a lot of metal...

2001 Chevy Blazer 4x4 4.3 Vortec with 107k miles. Out: Quaker State Full Synthetic 5w30 / Fram Ultra Synthetic XG3980 (3k miles on the filter) - 1k miles on the oil. In: Mobil 1 HM 5w30 / Fram Ultra Synthetic XG3860. Will probably keep this oil and filter in for about 2k miles this time.

I bought a UAC sanden style compressor on Rockauto for my 2001 Chevy Blazer about 2 months ago. The Blazer takes an HT6 style compressor with PAG150, but there is a Sanden style one piece case replacement available, which is supposedly better than the HT6 which has a two piece case design that...

I change my oil every about every 3k-5k miles, but I don’t change the filter every time though. Disclaimer: I just change my oil often and it’s just what I do. I not telling anybody to do what I do. I feel like I have to add disclaimers to every single thing I say on this forum. But...

First oil change @500 miles on the odometer Second oil change @1500miles on the odometer Third oil change @3000miles on the odometer After this just do it every 5k miles or 7k or 3k or whatever interval you feel like. I follow this step on every new car. If you follow this method, and if...

There’s no electrical issues. There’s no rust whatsoever on the truck, and all the grounds that I can get to in the engine bay and on the frame has been cleaned with Deoxit. Also, I got a brand new Acdelco alternator right when I got the truck that works perfect.

Well, then it is what it is. I don’t have to reinforce anything. I’m not here to debate, I’m here to share my story whether people want to believe it or not. That’s up to the readers, not me. My truck is fixed thanks to MMO, and I’m happy about it. That’s all that matters to me.

Yes, this truck is a southern truck, no rust whatsoever, and I have cleaned them.

No the main point of this thread was how MMO fixed my issue. I never said Mobil 1 0w40 was what caused my issue. It just happened to be the oil I’ve been using for a year while my compression and misfire issues started developing basically 2-3 months ago. If you couldn’t tell, I was making fun...

I never said Euro 0w40 caused my compression issue. I just basically was saying that I found it weird how the issues started happening when I’ve been using M1 0w40 for a year with 3 month OCI’s, because according to BITOG, M1 0w40 is supposedly the best cleaning oil. Then a little bit of MMO...

I never said Euro 0w40 caused my compression issue. I just basically was saying that I found it weird how the issues started happening when I’ve been using M1 0w40 for a year with 3 month OCI’s, because according to BITOG, M1 0w40 is supposedly the “best”.

Tbh, BITOG is 99% anecdotes. But anyways, I really wasn’t even planning to share this story. The only reason why I decided to share this story was because I’ve been using Mobil 1 Euro 0w40 for a year, and compression issues started developing. Just gotta give it a couple more days, Euro 0w40...