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What I'll probably just do is use it as top-up oil in my 2005 Dakota pickup; it's starting to burn a little bit between changes, so I occasionally need to top it up. I figure it's probably not too detrimental in any case if it's just a pint here or there.

Recently I was going to change my generator oil, and opened an old gallon of Mobil 1 0w-30 AFE (SN) that has been on the shelf for about 5-6 years. I was hesitant to use it, because rather than the normal gold/amber sort of color, it was a deep red/brown - so much so, that my younger son (7...

I figure this Valvoline Premium Blue stuff is the best all-around option; high HTHS, manual-specified viscosity, HDEO additive pack, and NG compatibility, for what that's worth.

I think I'm going to use this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OGRYJYG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Basically it's a 10w-30 HDEO rated CK-4 (HTHS >= 3.5) for diesel, SP and SN Plus for gas engines, and is recommended for natural gas engines as well. Since I'm planning...

Yeah, it's really more the high temps that have me concerned, not the lower ones.

So I was down at my mom's place this past weekend cleaning some stuff out of the shed that my dad had left in there before he passed away, and I found a generator that doesn't seem to have had much use. It's a DuroStar DS4000s, and the manual says that it likes 5w-30 below about 30 degrees...

Here's something I've been wondering for a LONG time.... Which is better, going with premium brands like Pennzoil(PYB), Castrol GTX, etc... but in their conventional line, or going with a more bargain brand like STP, SuperTech, Quaker State, etc... except in their highest-end "synthetic" line?

The bike term is "derailleur hanger", if you're talking about that black painted aluminum thing connecting the derailleur with the hub bolt. The idea is if you hit a rock or log or other thing with the derailleur hard enough, you'll mess up the derailleur and hanger, both of which are...

Originally Posted by bbhero Going to CTE... It's not a one size fits all. I believe it is a very broad spectrum. Person A gets knocked out and recovers quickly. They get knocked out again shortly after.. and they are fine again.. in other words be they never have any problems with CTE...

Probably sounds kind of simplistic, but I just have a memo on my phone that I record the date, mileage, oil type and filter type.

2005 Dodge Dakota, 3.7l V6 ~92000 miles. I'm leaning toward the once-a-year change for convenience's sake. I was just curious if there was really any advantage to more frequent oil changes if there was no difference in cost.

One thing to keep in mind is that in general, as the specs get tighter, it tends to squeeze out any real differences between oils. Take Chrysler ATF+4 for example. The spec is so tight that there's effectively no difference whatsoever between brands (I think maybe they require a specific...

Generally speaking, it was PYB, Quaker State, Exxon Superflo (often on sale in the late 1990s in Houston) or Valvoline. Almost always conventional.

I'll set the stage here a little bit... I have an older truck (no mechanical issues) with about 92,000 miles on it and I'm not interested in putting any more money than necessary to keep it running and in good shape. I don't drive it hard- just to and from work, about 9 miles each direction...

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-31040-...206&sr=8-48 I'd say that IF you don't already have something sprayable on hand (white grease, lubricating oil, Break-Free, Rem-Oil, Pam....) then the spray Super-Lube would be a good purchase for your hood latch.

Originally Posted By: scotthershall These are perceptions based user experience on forums, marketing, and price (Royal Purple is expensive, so it must be good, right?). I suspect that the price is the biggest thing- the OP's list is pretty much broken into price tiers with a few exceptions...

Originally Posted By: bunnspecial One of the things about Volkswagons is that their(relatively) low initial purchase price draws people in. When it comes time for service, though, you're still paying the "German tax" although it's not a BMW or Mercedes. I'm often blown away when I hear...

It's probably a matter of more than adequate filtration from the current paper filters combined with more than adequate air flow as well, combined with extremely low cost. I suspect it's a situation where the paper filters are kind of at the top of the peak when air flow, filter life...

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4 Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh I think he's referring to the fact that many have said that a synthetic 10W-30 is essentially a monograde oil very close to a SAE30 weight... What ? 10W-30 synthetic is like a monograde without viscosity index improvers ...

I have a 2005 Dodge Dakota with the 3.7L V6. The "severe service" OCI is 3k miles, and is triggered by just about anything other than highway driving- temps over 90F with high speed driving, temps under 32F, stop and go driving, trips under 10 miles, etc... The regular OCI is 6000 miles. I'm not...