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Originally Posted By: SuzukiGoat I believe the difference in viscocities force the thermostat to open at a slightly cooler temperature. That's not how cooling system thermostats work though. They work off the principle of something called a "wax motor", meaning a sealed capsule filled with...

Originally Posted By: 440Magnum Also, changing the battery probably reset the adaptives in the engine control module, so it may take it a bit to "figure out" how to smoothly start and descend to idle again. I've had a couple of cars that would do that. Usually half a dozen drive cycles (cold...

Originally Posted By: maximus Nevermind the brand name. I sold hundreds of batteries when I worked at the Zone and one thing I concluded was here in TX, a battery lasts 3 yrs average. I compared the date codes on the core returns. There was always a universal average, even among OEMs. Local...

Okay... so after a run of problems that I've solved, I'm running into another that I'm having the hardest time diagnosing. Usually (I've had the truck 10 years now), I turn the key, the starter turns the motor over vigorously (RPMs go to 1100 or so), and then they drop back to 900-1000, until...

Yep... that 3.0L v6 is well-nigh indestructible. My 95 Ranger ran like a top at 235,000 miles and didn't burn any oil. Everything else fell apart around the engine during the 183,000 miles I drove the truck. It mostly got a diet of Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic 5w-30 from about 60k through about 180k...

Mine (2005 Dodge Dakota, 3.7L v6) specifies 5w-30 for any temperature, and 10w-30 for any temperatures above 0 degrees Fahrenheit. I've pretty much just run 5w-30, except when I've found an exceptional deal on 10w-30, or my experiment with 0w-30. I'm tempted to give Xw-20 a try; it's not...

To me (owner of a 2012 VW Passat with the 2.5L I5), the bigger question is whether or not the 502.X oils are really any better or different for a shorter OCI than a high quality synthetic like say PP or M1 that's not 502 certified. I kind of have the impression that most of the certification is...

Originally Posted By: Noey 3k OCI=Marketing myth. I wouldn't say "myth" exactly. More like "legend", in that there's certainly a little historical grain of truth at the core of it, but that there's a lot of [censored] and misinformation and flat-out untruths surrounding it. For example, my...

I'm not disagreeing with the OP's notion that 3k/3mo OCIs are likely overkill, but in some cases, they're the MFGR recommended OCI. For example, I have a 2005 Dodge Dakota with the 3.7l V6. The "standard" OCI is 6000 miles, and the "Severe" OCI is 3000 miles. The catch is that the requirements...

Originally Posted By: Jandry In terms of the filter, I think Im going to grit my teeth and keep going motorcraft fl400s. The big thing that gets me is the bypass settings of the filters. Most other filters I can find run under 20psi bypass, while the motorcraft one is rated 20psi. Given the...

Originally Posted By: Cruzingoose Now to try to answer some questions..... 10w30 used to be the standatd of engine oil for many years. It did not matter where in the US, AK probably the exception. As you all know, the SAE ratings for gasoline engine oil ard very different from diesel oils...

Originally Posted By: ToadU Soon they might even regulate how often your allows to change you oil to help the "environment". You, your family and everyone you know live in it, regardless of whether you put it in quotes to make it seem fraudulent or not. Here's the thing- someone's right to do...

Here's the thing- for pretty much all drivers, save those few that actually tear their engines down and go after them with micrometers, any claims of longer life or higher performance* are essentially unprovable. Even for a car that makes it to 300k, you can't definitively point at the oil and...

checking back in something like 3.5 years later, and the Dex-cool in my pickup still looks good- bright orange, no gel, sludge or crud in the catch-tank, and no overheating problems yet.

How long before the "full synthetic" pedants show up and badmouth it because it's not a PAO, and therefore not synthetic? (I've seen people claim that slack-wax derived basestocks aren't synthetic because the wax originally derived from petroleum. Most retarded claim ever, IMO)

Considering that most B&S engines will probably run for 30 years on API SA oil, this business of exactly what synthetic and grade to run in them is probably more absurd than medieval monks debating angels on pinheads. That said, I'd just run 10w-30 Supertech synthetic and call it a day. It's...

Huh? Look closer- in the first photo, left side, bottom half. There are 15 Mobil oil cans of various sorts.

I have. 1.5 years/10540 miles in the same 3.7L Chrysler V6 that the OP has. 5w-30 Mobil 1 Extended Performance does just fine. (apparently I couldn't calculate years and months when I posted that- it was nearer to 1.5 years than 2.5 years)

Originally Posted By: Miller88 - Turbos are cooled by coolant now, oil is mainly for lubrication That's probably the most telling thing in the entire thread. If they're not oil-cooled, the stress on the oil is dramatically lessened, and I'd suspect that a coolant-cooled turbo would work even...

Originally Posted By: jrustles If I were taking a cross country trip or driving hundreds of KM each day, I would probably intentionally select 10w30, synthetic or mineral, for a 5w30 spec'd car. By that logic, you'd do best in that situation using 30HD, since you're only starting it a very...