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That's a lot more than "some". I would run the VRP 5w-30 regardless just to start working on the rings. Once that's dealt with, then switch to a Xw-40.

10w-30 would be perfect and also the factory recommend for that vintage.

It was the first online converter that I found that didn’t require making a login to translate the pic. Quality is…functional.

There is no add pack, or lack thereof, that would have launched that engine in the 20 miles claimed. There is a lot more to that story than what we have been told.

I picked up a 21” 140cc walk behind for free. Cut fine when side discharging but wasn’t able to mulch without bogging. Due to a cracked crank journal on the bottom causing a slow drip, I repowered the unit with a 173cc unit from Amazon. Cuts way better with the extra cc’s.

Lookup online if your area has an Environmental Center of some sort that takes hazardous materials. Often are run by the county or city. If not, some cities have a hazardous material dropoff day of some kind throughout the year.

Good deal, just check if any crap collects between the deck and the back of the muffler. Can’t tell how much of a gap there is from the pic. Also, why the mixed gas? Straight E0 would be ideal.

Do you know what viscosity oil he used? The Ford spec for the Triton V10 is 5w-20 up to 2015 and 5w-30 for 2016+.

I would just run a 15w-40 HDEO like the SuperTech Full-Synthetic variety. Love the exhaust pipe btw :ROFLMAO: May need to plumb that away from the deck chute though, possibility of starting clippings on fire.

Man at first thought my mind went to a Geo Metro seeing that. For those that remember Geo anyhow…

How many miles on the 3.9? Noise a sudden thing or slow onset? Agree with others, run any x-40 and see how it sounds. Derp, saw your sig. definitely 40 weight time.

If you build it, then you will have it...

I don’t get that. GM discovered an issue with manufacturing on the first engine. So then in their infinite wisdom, they replace the engine with another built with the same faulty parts. Which, surprise, fails the same way again. Onto #3… My takeaway from that scenario is that they don’t know...

I forget the engine but he had the 3/4” bar on the crank bolt and had to use the front end loader to push down on it. That was a scary amount of stored energy waiting to pop.

That's...a pretty wide spread no? Wet or dry sump? My Outback lists 5.1qts, it gets 5. The Equinox lists 6, it gets 6. Depending on the size of the filter can, it all evens out. The really annoying ones are the .5's. The GM 4300 for instance, lists 4.5 qts, I always dumped the full 5 qt jug.

I’m guessing with the slight residual oil that is left in any engine when changing the oil, a flat 6 will fill to full. IIRC, the oil capacity listed is for a fresh//dry/totally empty engine. It’s technically the capacity but in reality, 6 is fine.

Does the noise change when engine is cold vs hot? Noise increases linearly with rpm I imagine? Could pull the beauty cover off and hold your hand on each valve cover to see which bank feels clankier.

We now have a teardown on a recalled L87 and it’s bad…

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/90s-chevy-truck-elusive-engine-knock-rod-main-bearings-or-what.385208/