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I had/have a weepy RMS on my '98. I was running SuperTech 5/10w-30 HM,among others, with no results. I switched over to Castrol GTX HM 10w-40 (blend, not full synth version) for a OCI and no more drips. I have since switched it to M1 0w-40 and continue to have no leaks. Anecdotal, but I was...

Which also makes Royal Purple’s filter as well as the Fram Endurance…all three are virtually the same filter. Buyer beware. As other mentioned, most of the PG filters are made in Vietnam. Buying USA is great and all if quality was on par or better than other offerings. Unfortunately as seen...

Check out Carquest Premium’s from Advance Auto Parts or MicroGuard Select’s from O’Reilly Auto. Both are made by Premium Guard and have nice big holes on the tube, no louvre. Both are on sale occasionally, otherwise $10 normal price. Plenty of posts on here showing their excellent construction...

Well after searching more online, I seemed to have found the answer to my own question, https://www.3800pro.com/threads/pcv-valve-missing-o-ring-blown-oil-pan-gasket.43433/?post_id=319233&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-319233 Which sorta-kinda explains it. Without a vacuum diagram, its still...

Sorry to sidetrack but question to anyone that knows the design: how does that PCV function when the MAP is sitting on top of it? What/how is providing a source of vacuum flow when the entire valve is under vacuum?

I have the same combo ready to go for my Outback this spring.

The ripples are indeed felt on the spring itself but they may not be significant enough to leave an impression in the endcap. In the third pic here, I can rotate the spring around and find certain spots the almost eliminate light leakage while pressing down on it. It's tough to say how it looks...

If I spun the spring around in the hole and pressed down, I could lessen the light leakage but not fully eliminate it. Perhaps once the endcaps are saturated with oil, they may swell enough to seal better but ehh...

Yeah, with the last pic I was pushing down on the leaf spring trying to seal it against the cap and still couldn’t get it flat enough to seal. Granted this was destined for my lawn mower so not super important but after this, Fram is more or less dead to me for any purpose. Eager to switch...

Well...not so good :-/ https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/fram-tg3614-virgin-c-p-for-flashlight-leak-test.389881/

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/fram-endurance-flashlight-test-in-canister.386911/post-7079855

During the flat-head timeframe, not that I have seen/recall. Most walk-behinds would of had a 3.5 or 5hp consumer/base engine. Commercial walk-behinds very well may have had something better, back when quality was still regarded.

Oh, they used them plenty. The I/C engines themselves were always marked as such: The standard/non-I/C engines looked the part as well:

You seemed to have missed the first post that stated it’s a I/C Briggs, Industrial/Commercial. As I mentioned earlier, all the I/C’s are sleeved.

Also check the crankcase breather and make sure it’s not plugged. Pull the tube off the carb/air box side and make sure you can feel pressure pulsing as it runs. If weak or no pulsing felt, either need to replace the breather itself or pull the old one and clean it. Plugged breather will cause...

In that case, just run the cheapest 20w-50 you can find and send it...

What’s the long term intent for the mower? Run it till it blows or try to fix it up on the cheap and use it?

I thought the I/C’s always got a steel sleeve?

Will do, most likely get to it this weekend.