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Yeah, nobody posts on the internet when their car is doing great! Except maybe here. I know that there were some issues, and people blamed it on Dexcool and everything else. But to build a high performance V8 engine, without EGR, and still qualify as an ULEV (you know, like a Honda 4) was a feat...

A lot of them are still on the road.

Nope! The problem with his theory is that non-ethanol fuel, or even canned fuel, contains all of the other chemicals that he blames for the degredation. Yet, many that use the non-eth fuel won't have these issues.

Here's the view through my refractometer. It's dry in this case, but anyway, if you look carefully (sorry for the bad pic) down at the very bottom is a small F for farenheit. Also the left is labeled Etheylene Glycol and the right side is labeled Propolene Glycol.

Yes, it will. I'd say the mineral oil, the clear kind, would be best. I think it's a great idea, but it won't last forever.

Sounds like the same model I have. If you use the water to calibrate, does it give the blue color? Very strange.

Pretty much. Especially on I95 where the left lane is 85+, middle lane @77, that leaves the right lane for the daredevils. (Or the berm, saw that too)

Don't worry, with automatic braking, you won't have to worry about it much longer. And I don't even want to mention speed limit sign reading, which you won't be able to exceed.

Maybe the plate that flips down on the mixture isn't closing completely, or is warped. I've had small dust particles leave a small uncovered area, but after cleaning it showed bluish tone.

It was a picture showing a tach at 4000 rpm, what are we supposed to infer from that?

I did, in an above post. It's the downshift that does the work. Even downshifting on hills is mare beneficial than constant high rpm. That said, it is detrimental to an engine to be babied al the time.

Nope, not even close.

To OP, Nope. According to a GM (Northstar) engineer, that's NOT what you are trying to accomplish with the WOT procedure. The act of getting the engine to high rpm for a short period is fine, if the engine will take it. BUT what you are really trying to do is free up the ring pack, especially...

Didn't California ban gas powered OPE? There's your market.

Sorry, I can't agree with that. Mine was great. Heated seats, sunroof, fast, and handled well. Yeah, it was kida old, and I had to replace a couple of leaking fuel injectors, but that was about it.

My old Merkur (believe it or not) had a Garrett turbo on it. It also was cooled by coolant from the radiator. Not sure of the exact plumbing setup, but it worked well and never leaked.

Here's another example of this kind of failure. I am of the opinion that there are a lot of good safety features in cars today, however any kind of Self Driving is dangerous. This is only one example, much like yours. It's not ready for use on the roads...

No kidding.

The shop I go to actually states on the invoice that the customer is responsible for checking the lug nut torque after driving X number of miles. I check mine, and have a 40" long breaker bar to prove it! I need that to loosen them sometimes! Tightening to 100 ft lbs, no problem.

No, he's turning it the correct direction.