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Passive recirc line installed and everything works just like it should. Put in a new anode rod in the water heater as well. Old one was pretty corroded, but it was odd in that it was just a long (maybe 3') really thin rod (maybe only 5mm diameter). The hole at the top was pretty corroded...

So figured some things out. Most of it is by talking to a plumber who was nice enough to talk to me for a while, and I kind of formed the conversation to get some info out of him. He has done work on the house before. The bathroom remodel had the rough in for a shower valve but no cartridge...

So I can keep the heat trap if I run the recirc tp the cold intake and put a check valve in the recirc line just prior to it connecting to the cold? But if I hook the recirc to the drain valve, I need to remove heat trap? Are the above two statements correct? Below figure is from a recirc...

Getting this is an option, too. 30% tax credit. Only $400 more than a gas one with the credit and saves a lot of energy. Just not sure how much colder it makes the room, the other side of basement is finished (will be soon)...

It was about 10 seconds, which was fine. It was maybe around 20 at first, but putting foam insulation on the hot line run a few years ago helped a lot.

The former recirc line was taken out because the house is getting a repipe from cpvc to pex/copper. It ran from the other side of the house to the water heater along the ceiling, then down the water heater vertically to connect to the old drain valve (the blue one in the pic is new and does not...

Attached are pics. Just a little more info. I released some water from the tank using the T&P valve to check temp. It is similar to at the shower (so not very hot). The previous recirculation line was attached with a fitting to the drain valve. It went down right next to the TP valve...

The recirc line was taken out with the portion of the repipe that is already complete. Right now it is just conventional, heater to tap (takes forever for even the warm water to get to the kitchen). But it is going to be put back in. The inlet for it will be on on the drain valve of the water...

Thanks. So you're saying that the flap/ball needs to be removed for a gravity recirc line to work?

Currently my house is getting repiped, so figured might as well replace the water heater as we have had some problems with it the last few years. It is a 400 series AO Smith, 2016 model year. A gravity fed hot water recirculation line was feeding into the drain valve. Part of the house was...

Ended up going just with the Woodford. Parts easily available and rebuildable. Plus, I tried emailing Quarter Ball some questions and their email address comes back undeliverable. Calling goes to voicemail right away. So customer service is non-existent.

I am on a well and getting house repiped from CPVC to copper. Am getting sillcocks replaced, too. Right now sillcocks are on 1/2" water line. Hose sprayer pressure is fine but sprinkler water volume seems less than ideal (don't cover nearly the area they should). Would it be helpful to have...

The reno has expanded beyond master bath and plumbing, will now be in the $30k range. Wife wanted basement redone and a half bath down there. Ugh. Not finishing the ceiling in basement, it will look better and be more functional at getting to things than having a drop ceiling. The job will...

Running great now. Cleaned the carb and jets, and changed a couple gaskets and the heavy cardboard piece between gaskets where the carb attaches. Valves are where they should be. Runs better than it did when new.

So maybe spoke too soon. Started up today and it surges a little. It did yesterday, too, after doing valves. Rechecked valves and they are within spec per manual (.006 inches intake, .008 exhaust). Rod seems in place correctly. Thoughts? Also a lot of smoke and Bruning smell. Might just...

This has been an issue for a few years, but only when starting it again after shutting it off. But in last few weeks it has been on a cold start, too. All seems good now. Didn't check flywheel or key as it wasn't an acute issue. Intake was a little out of spec loose before loosening nut...

So when I broke free the nut on the intake to adjust the screw, the push rod came unsecured (didn't even loosen it or turn adjustment screw, just broke it free). Is there a good way to get it back in place? Edit: got it. Used a needle nose and strong light to see back there.

Yes, carb is on right and muffler on left.

Toro Super Recycler with TXP 159cc engine. Cord kicks back hard when trying to start, thinking valves are out of spec. But not sure which is exhaust and which is intake? Found the repair manual which says intake is on the left. But that one is right next to the exhaust. So a typo in the...

The hot water lines are all a darker shade. Not sure if due to the water or if they for some reason used a slightly different color.