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Been working on mowers since I was 12 years old, it appears most people don't change the oil in their mowers until there's something wrong with it. Most of the mowers that do get the oil changed their owners take it to a small engine repair shop and they do it. I've got a nice garage kept...

Theres lots of push mowers out there that wish they had oil from my wife's hybrid or 4,000 mile oil from my dodge Dakota beater truck in them.

I've got the fram synthetic endurance oil filter on the old dodge sludge engine. I put that oil filter on there June 28th last year. Only took it off to dump the oil out of it last time I changed the oil after 4,000 miles. Well it's been another 3,900 miles. Am I cutting it or running it for...

Bought a ford explorer from my wife's brother. Needed an oil change. Man that oil was black. Not suitable for reuse. Went straight into the "combustion grade" oil jug.

All the R-134a I pulled out with the $0 method went back in plus 2 to 4 ounces of new stuff to make up for the 30psi that was left in the system. The cars A/C appears to be as good as new.

I really thought it was too. The "inverter coolant low" warning message definitely scared the insurance company off, just a simple part. If it was hit the same way on the driver's side stick a forklift in it and put it in the car crusher it would be done. A hit on the driver's side like that...

This engine appears to be hard on oil. 5,000 is pretty good. Probably want to do testing to much beyond 5 or 6k.

Looks like a good list. I was going to say if you want shear stability stay away from PP and PUP 5w-30.

I'm thinking 10k is probably enough. I'll have some to cut open soon.

Got some more loot. I thought surely it's used oil. I looked, then I sniffed, smells like group 1 from back in the day. I'm thinking: Run it. Or Test it, then run it. By run it I'm thinking bar and chain, maybe use it as flush oil, break-in oil, not combustion grade, yet.

Good to know I'm not the only one.

Aye as am I.

Unless someone knows a spec ford 4L sohc reason not to run a 20psid bypass it sounds good to me.

I've got a 2010 ford explorer 4L engine it takes a 22x1.5 thread filter. The 22x1.5mm oil filters are new to me. There's plenty of room to run something double the length of a ph2 filter.

The code on the side is A09321 I'm thinking "run it".

I put Castrol GTX classic car 20w-50 oil in my wife's car as top off oil. It's a 2018 Hyundai. Some 10w-30 lawnmower oil won't hurt it.

Guess we'll see. I've cut open dozens of OCDs that were ran for hundred hours and a few OCD, wix, napa that were ran for thousands of hours. None showed any signs it was about to give up. The current oil filter on my truck has been on there for about 7,300 miles and the one on my wife's car has...

The fan came in today. It's now fully operational, kinda like the deathstar in return of the Jedi.

Try 32:1 if too smokey go 40:1

Yeah 20 is pretty good. Who wants to spend $30 to $50 on an oil filter that needs to likely be changed every oil change. There's a white paper on here that breaks down engine gunk by particle size. Catching most of the say 3 to 15micron bits would increase the dirt load on the filter something...