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I do. The used oil goes in free mowers that I accumulate that don't even know if they'll start. No point in topping off a mower that turns out to be a dud with new oil I paid money for. Then once I know they run I'll dump what's in there and fill it up with more used oil, run it enough to test...

Doing an oil test is almost like knowing everything when it comes to used oil. The oil that dumps out of my Nissan leaf is bad enough I would only put that oil in my coal furnace. Over all the oil that comes out of my wife's hybrid isn't terrible.

How is it "filthy oil" when I oil test it and it comes back in at least fair condition besides some fuel dilution and viscosity loss?

I went stone age on it. I used a rubber line and the mobil1 squeeze bottle. Didn't even drop the spare. I'm going to do the transmission fluid change the same way the powerstroke help guy does it. The transmission has always been the weak spot for the Ford explorer.

If I found a 22psid bypass filter I would probably run it. But it would seem the selection of 22x1.5mm threaded filters are limited.

It doesn't get black from the heat. Have you ever measured the oil temperature in a lawnmower? Cheaper oil still cost more than free oil and still have to dispose of fresh oil.

The wl10058 is 8psid the fram FE2 was 7 to 11psid. I'd run up to a 22psid.

The difference between 75w-85 and 75w-90 is similar to the difference in a 30wt and 50wt motor oil.

That was VRP and I'd say it worked, probably almost too well. I wouldn't recommend 10hr road trips on VRP in a sludgy engine with a very high efficiency oil filter. A rock catcher like a wix XP, oversized as big as you can go would be better.

Well thats not going to work. Figured out what they mean by a "bypass filter" the outlet only has a tiny 1mm hole for oil to flow through. But it clearly says 7 to 9gpm like most of the other 18x1.5mm filters.... I saw 2 or 3 wix 18x1.5mm that were "8 micron" but that's probably about equal to a...

No one wants to take anything to the dealership because all they want to do is throw dump truck loads of parts at them.

Last I heard craigslist charges $5 for a car add so there's a lot less scammers on there.

Agreed a well kept engine isn't going to fill up a filter. But did you see my 2 oil change 8,000 mile fram synthetic endurance filter? That thing was all kinds of loaded up from past oil changes not done on my neglected dodge.

Where I live it's really dry. This wasn't water in the oil.

I just found a wix I could use as an oil filter with a beta of 75=9 and is "rated for" 3 microns. 75 is about 98.7% if I remember correctly. What I don't know is how much dirt it holds.

I had one with 5 year old oil in it with only a hundred hours on it. The oil didn't even want to stick to the metal any more. The oil wanted to bead up like water.

Yeah because almost no one makes any effort to keep the used oil clean or to attempt to clean it.

When they burn up I bet that what usually does it.

I'm using it as will it even start and flush oil. The thing that happens at least every week is I get a mower in. Idk if it even starts and it's really low on oil. So do I dump perfectly good oil in a possible junk mower that might not start or free used oil? Then say it does start and runs...

I've been using really old SA rated 30wt, 40wt, first edition SL rated 10w-30, first edition SM rated 30wt and really old ATF mixed with any of those oils during the winter for years now. Most recently I've added 2.5 gallons of ancient SH rated 30wt oil to bar oil stash. For right now my saw bar...