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If you sat there right when Little Al the wall, then we probably were dang close to each other on that day as that's where I was sitting.

My two trips to the Indy 500 were in 1989 and 1990. It was great that Buick was able to field their turbocharged push rod six cylinder engine against the racing derived turbocharged V8's for a good many years. That that kind of stuff made it interesting. In 1989 we were seated inside a turn...

I was (attempting) at being good-naturedly humorous that if you don't want a spec chassis, go to Formula 1 or Moto gp. It was my interpretation you were saying because Indy car is a spec chassis you haven't watched it. However then you say you want to see better competition. Typically said F1...

That means you'll be skipping the race on television and checking out pickleball on ESPN 14? In all seriousness, I admire your fortitude at staying away. Probably Formula 1 or MotoGP would be options, definitely no parity there.

Good discussion. I can see there is merit to more modern vehicles with fuel injection and electronic timing controls being less prone or not affected by issues with carbon buildup. I have experience back in the day with carbureted vehicles with more rudimentary ignition systems and it was a fact...

What I do agree is one of us is not correct in what they're talking about. I'll leave that up to the collective to decide since this seems to be a one versus one debate right now. A higher octane gas is more tolerant to auto ignition, it is more tolerant to spark ignition as well. Auto ignition...

Congrats on getting back in the saddle! It's a great feeling. Castrol oil will be fine. Fresh, clean oil during breakin is more important by tenfold then the brand. We all have opinions on our best oil based on individual experience but I've never heard of an engine failing when running any oil...

M1 20w50 V-Twin would be a great choice. The oil selection game keeps forums like this in business. Everything you've described about the low annual mileage and temperatures, go with that and be done. Heavier oil does a good job of remaining in the engine and sticking to parts at startup, oil...

Doesn't sound like you're running on the ragged edge of lane splitting and want to live for the next 5 years until you're too old to ride... however you don't mention how many miles you may put on the bike in that time. Why not use the same tires? I've also used the 230 Tourmasters on the same...

Higher octane allows gasoline to resist ignition, if it burns in the same amount of time once it ignites as regular gasoline, than combustion of the gasoline ends later then the engine was designed for. You're saying the same thing I am. Just trying to make sure you understand that. It's a...

The bike gets 50 to 51 MPG in regular riding. The oil weight hasn't made a notable difference over many riding seasons and comparing running 10w40 versus 20w50.

I think it's common knowledge among folks that have gone through decades of oil that the heavier oil holds up better and offers better shifts, despite what a certain person continues to perpetuate on the Forum lol. Shift quality is not a study, it is an art. I run 20w50 in my ZRX 1200 for that...

Valvoline conventional 10w40 motorcycle oil was shown recently on this forum have the initial viscosity of a 20w-40. Food for thought. Here's a link to that thread: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/voa-valvoline-motorcycle-10w40.382929/#post-6996945

Hey thanks for the reply. That's exactly I said. Higher octane than the vehicle was the designed for slows down the combustion process. When something happens later than it should such as gas igniting, that is slowing down the combustion process. Therefore the flame front is not optimized for...

Something that was shared with respect to motorcycles on this forum. Valvoline 10w 40 conventional motorcycle oil rates as a 20w40 with respect to initial viscosity.

It is a new bike with the factory fill at 300 miles... How long do you recommend keeping the factory fill in, in order not to waste oil? The described "gritty" shifting is a common signal the oil viscosity is breaking/broken down, and again, it's the factory fill... Nothing was mentioned...

You have asked about an extreme heat situation there may not be an answer for. Honda recommends a 2000 mile oil change interval on that bike. Based on that, they know that bike is hard on oil. With the knowledge of XR650L oil temperatures you have shared, you must have some experience with it...

The lighter weight will unleash another 1/10th of a horsepower or so from your engine. Thanks for the post, BLS. However a good synthetic 10W40 that does not shear down will provide similar protection vs a 20w50 conventional that may sheer down, IMO.

Looks like the most recent ones were posted basically at the same time, definitely overlapped. Apologies on the part about the last couple months. There was a post in February from a VOA done in January of last year of the restore and protect. I'll shut my mouth, carry on.

That's the third VOA of this oil from Oil Analyzers in the last 2 months. All of them read the same. Was something expected to be different? I offer it as spending money on VOA's at this point with little return. Spend the money on oil!