big thing to look for is a wide pleat spacing, they like to tear. that and excess glue that breaks off. otherwise they’re good filters, i like the base end bypass valve.
rock catcher is there to prevent large debris from entering the pump. i think it’s a good thing to leave in place even with a filter in the cooler circuit. it will hopefully prevent the pan filter from loading but i would still change it on a 50-60k interval. i change my cooler line circuit...
only smokes after idling about 10 minutes, tale tale of valve seal leaks due to vacuum. it’s had R&P, HPL EC30, HPL PCEO, two BG EPR flushes etc. filter comes out clean. i just think she’s worn out after 400k miles.
API specs are backwards compatible per API itself other than some high speed diesel spec.
https://www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil/eolcs-categories-and-classifications/oil-categories#tab-gasoline
as far as weight, generac won’t do a UOA. if it makes you feel better, purchase some...
are you positive it was OEM? the factory plug in mine nor the 100’s of these trucks i’ve seen were magnetic. the dorman replacement looks identical to the OE but with a magnet.
i use the carquest red filters in all of the fleet vehicles i service, always a clean intake duct after 12k in dusty chemical plants/ pipeline ROW’s.
my accords get Fram Ultra air filters, truck has a carquest HD version of the donaldson 6637. haven’t had a problem with the carquest air...
i run M1 0w-40 in our propane forklift and change it every 6 months. comes out looking exactly like it went in. considering this is basically OPE that runs extremely hot and you’re also in louisiana, why are you favoring a 30wt?
have to pull the camshafts out which requires pulling the timing components off. i’m not going to worry about it, it’s got 400k+ miles on it and i have a ton of oil