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It seems 'planned obsolescence' is more widespread than ever.

I'd be more concerned for the people driving behind those Foresters when the moon roof flies off.

I currently have 2 Fords and an old 2008 Corolla beater that just keeps running. Before that I had a Buick, 2 Saturns, 2 Hyundais, 2 Mazdas, a Nissan, a Honda, 3 Dodges, a Pontiac and some others that I forget. In other words I'm not brand loyal. There was a time in my life when I was a 'buy...

Because the 'search function' on BITOG sucks. I use 'Google' instead.

GM and Ford seem to think that people want to commute in expensive pickup trucks....they've given up selling cars (unless you consider those 3 cylinder disposable vehicles). There is nothing the 'Big 3' currently sell that i would consider buying and that's on them.

The car manufacturers keep bringing out expensive 'technology' that most buyers don't want or need. When they go out of business they'll realize that most people just want basic transportation that they can afford which will probably come from China....unfortunately.

My thoughts are the same as yours.

If I lived in Canada I'd consider an 0w30 like Mobil 1 or one of the 'Euros' like Castrol, Pennzoil, Mobil ESP, Valvoilne etc...

I get that but if I was one of those lucky enough to score some for $4 a 5 quart jug at AA I'd use it in my Ford Duratecs for 5K OCIs without hesitation or concern that I was hurting my engine.

I would say it's an SP rated synthetic blend oil and I would have no problem running it 5K in a 5w20 or even an 0w20 spec'd vehicle (in warmer months). IDK if the OP's 2006 Avalon or 2009 ES350 spec'd 5w20 but if they did this is a better oil than the SL rated oil they spec'd back then.

Thanks for the info....where is the photo located?

I had never cleaned a MAF sensor in over 50 years of driving until last month. I bought a can of MAF cleaner (Berryman's and not CRC because that's what Walmart had in stock). I had an issue with my daughters Mazda after changing the spark plugs and cleaning the MAF sensor was recommended on...

I agree the guy's a loser but you have to also realize that many men are taken to the cleaners by loser ex-wives so now it works both ways for better or for worse.

I change the oil and filter at the end of every season on my 19 year old Craftsman 18 HP B&S Intek powered riding mower and I've never used dedicated 'air cooled' motor oil since draining the factory fill. I used old 10w30 synthetic for years (Amoco Ultimate SG rated) and when that ran out I...

Where I live the recyclables are picked up by a separate truck.

My nephew bought a 2018 Honda HRV a few months ago with about 130K. I advised him to change the CVT fluid and he bought Valvoline CVT fluid in the blue bottle shown in post #42 (not Maxlife). We changed it and he says it's running fine. I was surprised that the fluid that came out looked so good...

I have often picked up trash if there was a garbage bin nearby to throw it in but since Covid I've been less inclined to do so. Another thing that annoys me is people throwing recyclables in the garbage. At the gym I go to (a large national chain) people throw their cans and plastic bottles in...

What's the difference between Quaker State Advanced Durability and Quaker State All Mileage? Does the "All Mileage' have more seal 'conditioners' like high mileage oils? At any rate I would have no problem using this oil for a 5K OCI in my 2 Ford Duratecs which spec. 5w20 if I could get some.

I would do 1 D&R every 25K miles.....maybe once every 20K on a known weak A/T.