Recent content by LouC

We have 2 Jeeps with manually shifted chain drive New Process/New Venture transfer cases and they both spec ATF. All are over 100,000 miles and shifting well. The only ones that didn't IIRC were the automatically engaging 249 Quadratrac, 247 Quadratrac and 245 Quadradrive. I have the last one...

I don't have hard data on this but given Mercury and Mecruiser's recommendations over the years, they may have found that sterndrive engines (old school inboard designs) shear down oil faster than modern outboards do. That may be why they recommend 10w30 for outboard but for inboards, it's...

I read that was why Mercruiser went away from full syn oils for their engines, to the syn blend that has been their primary recommendation for many years. Boats are often sitting in damp environments for months not being used.

That is hard to say, because it can look fine on the outside and be bad on the inside, when a steel belted radial comes apart, it gets ugly fast, the steel belt strands will beat the hell out of the bodywork, depending on how it fails. I would not use a spare that is older than 10 years, in fact...

first question is what is your storage climate? if a dry semi arid climate that's one thing, or like here in coastal Long Island a totally different thing. I use Mercruiser syn blend oil in my old GM marine 4.3 and a look under the valve covers reveals no rust at all despite being stored outside...

I've been using this stuff (Lucas Marine blue marine grease) for everything for years, boat trailer bearings, boat I/O gimble bearing and ujoints, front suspension joints on my old '98 Jeep, door checks on the Jeeps, etc. It is different than the more common lithium complex grease in that it is...

That is odd, you'd think with a totally clean carb and throttle plate in the right position you'd see some response from the idle mix screws, as in screwing them in all the way really should stall the motor. I tried one of those on my old 4.3 V6 (original was a Quadrajet, but the 4160 was used...

The only thing I'd be concerned about here is not the oil per se but the fuel dilution....however the person generating the report wasn't concerned so I guess its common with DI engines. Given that, I might do more frequent than specified oil changes.....

They have been in business since 1962 from what I was able to find out, I have only used their trailer tires but never had a problem with any of them, usually I replace them at 6-8 years, or whenever I start seeing a lot of cracks in the tread. If you want a good low price bias ply trailer tire...

They were a popular second tier tire, I recall their mascot was a Rhinoceros and their ad line was "Rhino Tough Tires"

How about Kenda? I have used their trailer tires for years with good results.

I got 2 codes on my 2007 Jeep for evaporative emissions leaks, large leak and small leak, replaced the leak detection pump and filter & that cured it. I got the P013c code for slow response from rich to lean, downstream O2 sensor, found a leak in the exhaust system near the O2 sensor. I got one...

Wow watched that vid, it is an amazing amount of hand labor. I know that now trailer hitches are actually part of the frame on some vehicles, like late model 4Runners and Tacomas and I have seen the same on Grand Cherokees and Dodge Durangos, the factory hitch actually replaces the rear most...

Those (VW and Honda) were easy because, they were adjusted cold. On my '82 Mazda 2,000 cc I had to set then hot, which was a real pita, too hot for your fingers. Not sure why but that's what some manufacturers insist on. I have an old GM marine 4.3 in my boat and it has nice roller hydraulic...

Just for the heck of it I pulled out my old 1980 Honda Civic owners manual and it said to adjust the valves every 15,000 miles. When I had air cooled VWs the book said 6,000 miles.