Recent content by LarryR

Sorry to be a bit of a jerk, but I want to bring this back up to the top. I'm hearing conflicting stuff on what to use for break in on this rebuild.

I had a leaky top on my rad, replaced it with one from rock auto for 100 bucks. other than that, haven't had any cooling issues. It has always warmed up and stayed right in the middle of the gauge with 0 fluctuation. I might bite the bullet and try the maxlife blend or M1 HM next time around.

No rust, just some fairly light body damage and a ratty interior. Bought it just as a beater/thrasher and to race eventually. Ratty interior is gone and I don't care about the dent! Anyone else? I'm considering the ubiquitous M1 and keep using the P1. Is that okay for break in as well?

So far you seem to think i'll be ok seal wise switching to a syn or syn blend on this thing? Anybody recommend doing a flush with B-12, MMO, or seafoam to take care of the potential gunk? Ike- My car is electronic coil pack based so no dist. to leak from. Actually on the trans I ran into a...

I plan to go full synth in this thing, but I haven't read up on recommendations for break in or anything. I know the previous owner probably did a relatively OK job of keeping up with oci's, he had it for something like 7 years too. The bearings looked GREAT and it was getting 190 compression...

Here is a bit of info on the sludge issue. Its fairly rare, and w/ my OCI being pretty OCD since its first change I doubt i'm at any real risk for it. http://www.yotarepair.com/Sludge_Zone.html I do need to pull my cover though, gasket is leaking in the back a bit.

One more car to ask about! I purchased this car with 210k on the clock and despite its generally good health I opted to go ahead and replace the rings and bearings while I had it partially torn apart. Prior to the rebuild I changed the oil once using castrol synthetic blend and a PL24457...

Hey folks, I would like your opinions on oil and oci's for my 99' Camry. It is a 4cyl with 143k on the clock. It has had a 3k oci on Castrol GTX 5/10W-30 with OE filters, and in more recent years P1 PL14476--all since day one. Recently I switched over to GTX High mileage which has cured my cold...

I would highly recommend using the BMW coolant. I don't have data on hand to back this up, but it is my understanding that the BMW stuff helps prevent the coolant tank and radiator failures BMW's are often known for(at around the 100k mark).

Amen to that! I don't do my ranger anymore. I take it to the shop and let them glare at me every time I show up. My Camry on the other hand. Sooo easy. Just put on a glove so you don't burn yourself on the mani and you're good.

Sorry for the thread revival... Just wanted to say thanks for the info. Since I couldn't get Redline locally I used 75w-90 coastal(1.5 quarts) and 1 quart syncromesh. Its working fairly well but the syncros aren't always right on the money. Come next year i'll do mtl/MT-90 mix. I think thats...

Let me get you guys to expound just a bit more on the yellow metals thing, still a bit confused on that. Will any GL5 harm yellow metals, or will only GL5's with LSD additives harm yellow metals, or is the yellow metals + GL5=bad thing I keep hearing Bumpkis? I may try the nissan stuff if it...

Thanks for the info. So as long as it does not have LSD additives it won't corrode the brass, or at least not enough to matter? Would syncromesh be fine viscosity wise for a hold over? Its cheap, available, and fine for yellow metals. I'm in the mountains so its going to be cold soon.

Hi all, I have been a bit confused by all the mtl's out there and I am hoping you can help. My understanding is that the trans in my 93' 240sx uses brass syncros so GL-5's are bad for it, but other than syncromesh the only thing I can find locally that is even listed as GL-4 compatible is...