Recent content by jsap

Originally Posted By: mechtech2 TTY bolts neck down and stretch at their designated waist, not the threads. Well, not exactly. The "waist" is not a designated zone of stretch. When TTY bolts were first used, they used to have full diameter shanks, but later designs sometimes had either reduced...

That's a great article. I wonder how many other manufacturers use TTA (Torque-To-Angle) rather than TTY. It seems the Chrysler head bolts can definitely be reused, as long as the bolt's overall length is within spec (if not specified, I'd stay under 2% stretch) and there is no neck down at any...

I think between you and I, we've licked this one 99%, with only 1% disagreement. Shoots, that's better than most scientists, so we're doing great! The word "yield" is what's confusing everyone, including our own conversation. The TRUE elastic limit is way at the bottom near the toe of the...

Originally Posted By: mechtech2 Kestas - Exactly how do you tighten a used TTY bolt? Don't tell me that you used the original sequence! And please don't tell others it is OK! They might try it! I would agree with you that if the stretch limit is unknown, then do NOT reuse TTY bolts. But, in...

Originally Posted By: Shannow Pretty much in agreeance really. The torque to yield giving an even clamping force, I'll stick with... the flat part imparts a clamping load (stress x sectional area), that has a reasonable accuracy with a considerable error allowance in tightening angle achieving...

Originally Posted By: Shannow Nope, they are torqued beyond their elastic limit, and when the load is removed, the strain follows a path parallel to the original elastic line to a point of zero stress, which still has some permanent plastic deformation. I agree, there is still "spring" on bolts...

I just ran this in 11 gallons: Regane 2x Complete Fuel System (for up to 21 gallons) Regane 2x Complete Fuel System High Mileage (for up to 21 gallons) I'm half-way done with the tank, but I saw my intake valves this weekend, and they're perfectly clean, with zero carbon. The pistons, however...

Trav, I'll have updates on my cylinder in a week or so. I'm still tearing the car down. It's taken longer than I expected, not because the work was hard, but because labor day celebrations got in the way. Unlike most, the Mercedes manual gives specifications on how long the bolts can be prior...

Thank you, the vacuum gauge is really good advice. I've never heard of one. The closest I've gotten to that is balancing a carburetor with tubes in a bucket of water. Anyway, I looked into what that is, and it seems I don't have a place on my intake manifold to connect to. The only non-ported...

The air pump duct is in a severe inclination at the exhaust port, so any solvent will mostly flow down the manifold. I'll try your suggestion, but if the Amsoil power foam is really a foam, then maybe I could inject that into the spark plug well with the exhaust valve in the open position...

Thanks for the tip. I haven't given up the valve carbon theory, and I do think MMO is not a strong enough solvent. I was thinking that rather than Seafoam or GM TEC, I'd try just more carb cleaner, and lots of it. There is one difficult possibility, which is that the carbon is on the exhaust...

Originally Posted By: Trav Try pouring some MMO or GM top engine cleaner slowly down the intake or through a vacuum line.It could be a sticking valve. Yea, given that changing the lifters did nothing, I'm getting the feeling that it is valve carbon. So far, I've tried - water injection thru...

Originally Posted By: mechtech2 Those pictures showing varnish on wear surfaces actually show build up on areas of the cam that are NOT touching the lifter. At that point on the ramp, the cam is kinda flat on the lifter bucket , and is not riding on that surface. Otherwise, they would be wiped...

I have flat tappets, but the pressures on it on the M119 engine are very low, so all the lobes are still flat. For older engines with high-pressures, I agree with dermapaint. So far, I've been running Regane in the tank, so I'll report when I get more progress. As for varnish, look at this...

Fyi, I replaced my lifters, and it's still ticking after more than a week, so maybe MMO didn't cause anything worse. However, what seems to have made the ticking louder might be because the viscosity of the oil changed, so the sound travelled through the engine differently.... No conclusions...