Recent content by Jimmy C

Thanks for all the comments. Am I incorrect in thinking that on a cold day thick oil would mostly get dumped out the pressure release valve on start up? Is 10W-30 likely to do this at 20 degrees F? I do not want to have that happen.

Manual written I. 1972

I live in western North Carolina. Highest we ever see is about 80F. Oil temperature after warm up is always about the same. There is a thermostatically controlled oil cooler with forced air blowing across it. Plus’s it has a huge sump. 8 quarts on a 90 hp motor.

As far as my parking, (a) truck is almost exactly as tall as wide, and (b) landed on some soft bushes and did not put a dent in it. As far as scratches, no way to tell.

It is air cooled with a thermostatically controlled oil cooler. The oil temp stays right above 200 once warmed up no matter what. Why would you use something heavier than the manufacturer recommends?

For xW-30, what would x have to be if the oil was to have a similar viscosity at 20F as SAE 30 does at 212F? My 72 Pinzgauer manual says it is supposed to use SAE 30 in the summer and SAE10 in winter. I do not believe they had multigrade oil when it was built. I want to use the same multigrade...

This is the only picture I have of the truck

Hmmm…. I have no idea if the new seals are old or new polymers. Will mineral oil have a bad effect if the new seals are a modern polymer?

I replaced the front and rear main and all the seals on the pushrod tubes. I believe that is all the seals. I did not put valve seals in. New gaskets everywhere they had them. It is kind of weird in that it does not have gaskets everywhere. It has as a split crankcase like a VW bug that uses a...

I have a 1972 Steyr Puch Pinzgauer and am wondering if I should be using old fashion or modern oil in it. It has a 4 cylinder 2.5 liter air-cooled engine producing about 95 HP. It has aluminum pistons in cast iron cylinders, flat tappets, and gear driven cam. The crankcase is vented but not...