Recent content by BrandonVA

Replaced a couple of worn out servos in my friends explorer. Followed the procedure and everything went well. Took it on a test drive and couldnt get reverse to work and drive was severely deficient in power. Tried again a few minutes later and it was stuck in driveand couldnt get into park. Now...

just checked today and there are holes about every 10 inches are so from the factory with plugs in them. I'm thinking I could spray some sort of rust inhibitor through these holes to prevent more corrosion from occuring. Is there a good product for this? There are also holes on the top side...

hm, ok . let me check it out again today. when you talk about drilling a hole. do you drill from the top (inside the car) or from the bottom (outside)?

hopefully it's not as bad as it sounds. i'll snap a pic tomorrow. dang salty roads! everything else on this car is pristine! i've heard some people drilling small holes under the rusty rocker panel areas. would this be a good idea to mitigate future damage? I could also spray rust inhibitor...

how would i gain access to these drain holes?

I have a small 8"x3" area under my rear door that rust is taking over the paint. it is kind of bubbly. I would like to repair this. What would be the best route? I have some rust remover. Should I apply that, let it do it's thing, clean it up, then maybe sand the area with steel wool and use...

you really only need one gear unless you care about efficiency. but really, 10 speeds should be more than enough for most riding.

this is going on my new bike: still waiting on the frame, wheels, crankset, and pedals

as it turns out, my hubcap was not fully seated creating a clicking noise. this also somehow created a buzzing/gritty feeling in my clutch pedal. I reseated the hubcap and clicking is gone and the pedal is as smooth as before. glad it was an easy fix.

my new frame is 7005 aluminum. seatpost is 2014 aluminum.

ball bearings are cheap. easy to replace if you decide too.

no vibrations when braking

Originally Posted By: kyoo Originally Posted By: BrandonVA any filter with a good bypass vavle. honestly, if your racing you don't really need an oil filter. You are probably changing the oil after each track day anyway. but, that's' probably not a great idea. I'd look for the highest flow...

any filter with a good bypass vavle. honestly, if your racing you don't really need an oil filter. You are probably changing the oil after each track day anyway. but, that's' probably not a great idea. I'd look for the highest flow filter you can find. I prefer wix but I hear k&n's performance...

i took another look at it this morning before reinstalling everything a taking it for a spin. It really seems like the brake rotor is not even all the way around. At one position (say 2-4 o'clock) it rubs a lot more than the rest of the rotor. We had to jack up the rotor on that side at one...