Originally Posted By: cmills
My problem is getting the PDF into text format. Do you know how to do that on a mac?
This is a pointless suggestion if you absolutely need to have it in text format, but if your just looking to post the pdf, then you can open the pdf in the preview program in os x...
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
I'm definitely not in the expertise of using additives for prolonged periods of time.
Sorry i guess that post was misleading,the only additive i was really referring to besides the additive packs already added to base oils off the shelf was the kreen that you had...
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Amsoil for long intervals, I would use PU or even just PP for anything like 3-4K miles. No need to change the oil at 1,500 one just an oil cleanup. Maybe if you were using some aggressive additives like Kreen. If you used PU for 3,000/3 months for 3 oil changes...
Originally Posted By: 99SolaraSLE
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
I'd recommend something like Amsoil after you clean up. IMO, PU will clean it up faster and Amsoil will keep you there within reason.
ADDED: But, if you choose to stick to 3,000 intervals after the change. I'd personally just...
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
I'd recommend something like Amsoil after you clean up. IMO, PU will clean it up faster and Amsoil will keep you there within reason.
ADDED: But, if you choose to stick to 3,000 intervals after the change. I'd personally just recommend Mobil1 AFE 0w-30. If you go...
Yea, regardless of the route i take for cleaning now, i am deffinately going to use that longer filter(probably the Bosch)and a good synthetic for really frequent intervals. picking the synthetics a whole 'nother mess. I was originally thinking penzoil ultra. Then royal purple but that seems to...
Originally Posted By: wiswind
I saw them still in place in your pictures, so I knew what you intended.
I saw the tar on the sides of them, and that required a bit more rubbing to remove, kind of like the underside of the valve covers.
The deposits elsewhere wiped right off.
You would be better...
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
^Good post, nice points and basic method.
...but spark plug tubes...he removed them, so, uh???
Well Sorry if i get the proper terms mixed up, I removed the spark plug tube(rubber)but not the cylinder/tube thats actually welded to the engine that the...
Originally Posted By: 99SolaraSLE
I know you were speaking of my thread, but come on that doesnt accompany anything
First off let me say i dont know what word i was meaning to type that the auto-correct turned into accompany in the quote above,i think it was meant to say come on that ur pics...
Sorry left this out of the above post, but on my thread with the same topic i just made a post seeking help for cleaning inside and out to get everythig ready for the new gasket before i put the valve cover back on, anyone with any ideas your input would be appreciated.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
To accompany another thread, here is a picture of under the valve cover of my '99 Sienna engine. A steady diet of synthetic oil changed out at a relatively short OCI (approx 6000 miles).
At 155,000 the engine looked like this...
got a new felpro gasket set before i had the cover off. Now that the cover is off, Can anyone give any recommendations as far as cleaning the following:
1.) the top of the inside of the valve cover
2.) everthing/all the insides underneath where the valve cover was,toyota says use diesel?(or...
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Cover it with anything that gives a nice fit around where the cover usually sits(as long as the material in question won't tear and fall down into your engine itself). I'm assuming you are taking the valve cover to have the mating surfaces cleaned?
Bingo. Thanks...
I have a friend at o'reileys here, do you think its safe to have bring the valve cover over there leaving the insides exposed like that, with the hood open( cant close the hood with the way i have moved things out of the way to take the cover off) and possibility of wind blowing bits of dirt and...