We Bought a 2024 Odyssey

Staying in grade doesn't seem to be the issue. DW1 shears pretty quickly but works perfect until the friction modifiers do not function effectively.

Also, IME, all of the multi-vehicle fluids shift poorly in the Honda 5 and 6 speed autos. Sometimes not right away, but after 20-30k, the shift quality is never identical to OE.
I have experienced that as well. Exchanged for the correct Z1 at the time, then continued drain and fill routine maintenance with Z1 or DW1 and never had the weird shift behavior I had when I first purchase the Honda with 100k on it and fresh clean fluid (can only assume it was universal as shift quality completely normal after a full fluid exchange).
 
Installed the S-VCM muzzler last night. No issues.

Thinking I'll take advantage of the $25 rebate when you buy 2 5-qt jugs of PPPP. I'll use the 5W-30. Still only 1400 miles on it, so not in a huge hurry to drain the FF, but will probably change it before we start seeing regular 90 degree temps.
What kind of mileage hit did you experience with the s-vcm? I’m still up in the air as to muzzle ours or not. Seems like the s-vcm isn’t super reliable, but the company warranties them in every case I’ve read about failures. I’d prefer this one over others just due to small size and simplicity in hiding it away, but it still connects to battery power correct? There’s no real hiding that wire, it’ll always look out of place and lead the dealership to search for what’s added on.

Mileage isn’t my only concern, really not much of any concern, just curious. I’d prefer to protect the longevity of the engine, even though ours uses zero oil. It is new still, though. These issues aren’t going to arise till we’re way out of warranty.
 
The current gen 2nd row Sienna is removable, but probably not for the average father. My parents, and then myself have owned minivans since 1990 and the 2nd row has never been removed in any of them. I dont understand the fixation. Last week my van transported a 3 point scoop just fine with just the rear cargo area, my ranch van transported 900 lbs of concrete also with just the rear area a month prior.


With my Caravan we would take the middle seat out for long trips. One kid in the front seat and the other in the third seat. Whoever wasn’t driving was stretched out in the middle floor. Kept the peace for most of the trip.
 
My Grand Caravan ate through the OEM Yokohamas in about 40k miles.

I installed Michelin Defender LXT and they are closing in on 60k miles and still not on the wear bars. I rotate every 10k miles or so.

Maybe the Odyssey is more aggressive with the camber or something, but still, expect more life from quality tires vs the OEM. I would not sweat it. 50k-60k is probably achievable.
I think the OEM Bridgestones are to blame. The wear pattern is perfect, they just wore fast.

I have a set of Tiger Paws being delivered today. I'll probably have them installed later this week and I'll do the 30k service this weekend.
 
I think the OEM Bridgestones are to blame. The wear pattern is perfect, they just wore fast.

I have a set of Tiger Paws being delivered today. I'll probably have them installed later this week and I'll do the 30k service this weekend.
Most OE tires wear quickly. Balancing fuel economy and ride/handling characteristics are the top priorities when the proprietary tread compound is specified.
 
Staying in grade doesn't seem to be the issue. DW1 shears pretty quickly but works perfect until the friction modifiers do not function effectively.

Also, IME, all of the multi-vehicle fluids shift poorly in the Honda 5 and 6 speed autos. Sometimes not right away, but after 20-30k, the shift quality is never identical to OE.
I personally prefered the shift with max. But maybe that's me.
I would rather have less heat and longer life than butter smooth shifts.

I ran max to 40k all city driving with zero shift quality change.
 
I personally prefered the shift with max. But maybe that's me.
I would rather have less heat and longer life than butter smooth shifts.

I ran max to 40k all city driving with zero shift quality change.
I would rather not chance it and stick to OEM Honda Fluid...
 
It does, though it's the 3rd generation of VCM and a lot of people say it doesn't have near the issues of the Gen 1 & 2.

Still, as I said in my post, I bought the S-VCM muzzler and will be installing it in the next few days.

A lot of owners say they're still getting close to 30 MPG on the highway even with VCM muzzled.
Cylinder deactivation only works at low loads anyway, regardless of engine. For a V6 it makes even less sense than it does for a V8. Beautiful vehicle, enjoy!
 
Congrats to you & the Family. Very nice looking Honda --- hope it takes care of use for a longggg time.
Thank you!

2018 was first year for this, which seems crazy to me. It seems to me like just a couple of years ago that they came out with the redesign.

2024 being the 7th model year for this, in its current form, I’m hoping they’ve worked the bugs out, though, as I’ve said before, I know it won’t be as anvil-reliable as the 4Runner or Tacoma, over time. It’s just more complex.

But I’m going to try to do my part to keep up on the maintenance.

Last Sunday I changed the oil and filter for the first time at 2500 miles (PPPP 5W-30 and Fram Ultra XG7317). I’ll change it again at 5000 miles and rotate the tires, then every 5000
Miles after that. Makes it easy to remember.

And of course VCM is already muzzled since 1500 miles.

Also considering using some intake valve cleaning spray from time to time. I haven’t done a ton of research into that, but perhaps using it regularly and starting early with it would prevent most IVD from forming in the first place. I am curious if there’s any detriment to doing this. I know I’ve read here that it’s good to wait until just before an oil change to use fuel injector cleaner because the PEA (active ingredient) can hang around in the oil and possibly have a negative effect. And I know that the IVD/turbo cleaning spray I looked at (CRC brand) contains a large percentage of PEA (over 40%, I think).

CRC has a video claiming that the spray can even remove hard carbon deposits:

 
What kind of mileage hit did you experience with the s-vcm? I’m still up in the air as to muzzle ours or not. Seems like the s-vcm isn’t super reliable, but the company warranties them in every case I’ve read about failures. I’d prefer this one over others just due to small size and simplicity in hiding it away, but it still connects to battery power correct? There’s no real hiding that wire, it’ll always look out of place and lead the dealership to search for what’s added on.

Mileage isn’t my only concern, really not much of any concern, just curious. I’d prefer to protect the longevity of the engine, even though ours uses zero oil. It is new still, though. These issues aren’t going to arise till we’re way out of warranty.
For wiw I didnt muzzle.

I'm at 75K with barely noticeable consumption between 10K OCI's.

Reading about stuck rings and detrimental VCM effects I added a qt of HPL cleaner during an OCI around 50K expecting to find nothing but found a small amount of previously unseen carbonaceous material in the filter - best guess is that the cleaner liberated it from the front rings.

I believe I can keep it free of any deposits running HPL so I'm keeping it unmuzzled.

I would imagine the engine mount would last longer never being utilized for the odd frequency.
 
For wiw I didnt muzzle.

I'm at 75K with barely noticeable consumption between 10K OCI's.

Reading about stuck rings and detrimental VCM effects I added a qt of HPL cleaner during an OCI around 50K expecting to find nothing but found a small amount of previously unseen carbonaceous material in the filter - best guess is that the cleaner liberated it from the front rings.

I believe I can keep it free of any deposits running HPL so I'm keeping it unmuzzled.

I would imagine the engine mount would last longer never being utilized for the odd frequency.
I’m only at 12k on ours but hate the shutter flutter sounds and feeling when it deactivates 3…hate to think even more that we start using oil but not notice till out of warranty. My wife even notices it, but tried not to say anything as she thought she’d be opening a can of worms that’d never be fixed like with our nightmare with the Hyundai Palisade.
 
I’m only at 12k on ours but hate the shutter flutter sounds and feeling when it deactivates 3…hate to think even more that we start using oil but not notice till out of warranty. My wife even notices it, but tried not to say anything as she thought she’d be opening a can of worms that’d never be fixed like with our nightmare with the Hyundai Palisade.

Deactivation reminds of driving a manual and shifting into the tallest gear in the box as early as I can get there.

To me it sounds and feels like money not being spent - but I can understand people being wary of any change in engine note or feel.

I completely agree a busy family commuting in town and running errands in a van isnt going to get much value from the system.

When Im in what I call "grandpa mode" long slight downhills or flat two lane blacktop with the cruise around 60 I can get notable stretches of activation and fairly stellar numbers on the dash 30+ which for an AWD mid sized pickup is a phenomenal number.
 
Last edited:
For wiw I didnt muzzle.

I'm at 75K with barely noticeable consumption between 10K OCI's.

Reading about stuck rings and detrimental VCM effects I added a qt of HPL cleaner during an OCI around 50K expecting to find nothing but found a small amount of previously unseen carbonaceous material in the filter - best guess is that the cleaner liberated it from the front rings.

I believe I can keep it free of any deposits running HPL so I'm keeping it unmuzzled.

I would imagine the engine mount would last longer never being utilized for the odd frequency.
Vcm will obliterate your extremely expensive engine mounts before 100k.
In Canada the mounts are 850+ each.......
 
Exactly......give them time.
The engines and mounts are the same.

Never again a Honda product for me thanks .

They are just riding their past reputation wave.
Vcm should have been removed after gen 3.

No joke, every week 1 or 2 new people would joing odyclub to ask for advice with the 3k bill from their dealer to replace their oil drinking piston rings.
Or shot mounts, or shot front axles, or shot front brakes, or peeling off paint, or shot alternator, or broken door motors,.....all under 100k.
Dealers do it and laugh ever time, saying see you soon, again.

It's sad. I have owned many Honda's prior to the Odyssey.
But surfing the civic and pilot forums it's not much better at all
 
  • Haha
Reactions: hrv
Back
Top