post your latest transmission lubricant change.

Wife is staying with her mother in the hospital for a couple days so had time to work on her car. Despite my doubts to the benefit of replacing lifetime ATF, I drained and filled my 2020 RAV4 with 104k miles today. They don't make it easy. Put the vehicle on ramps, remove 2 bolts, 2 screws and about 6 plastic clips to remove the shield/cover. Drain and measure ATF. 2850 mL. Roll it off the ramps, remove access cover, remove fill bolt, rig up a hose and funnel and pour in 2860 mL of Max Life. The funnel holds about 100 mL so it takes a while to pour it back in. I added 10 mL for transfer loss. Put back on ramps to replace the shield/cover which was easier than I anticipated. Took me 2.5 hours. Fluid was a little dark. Nothing crazy.
 
Did a drain and fill of the 2010 Fusion’s transaxle. Having a dipstick and drain plug stock, make for a simple job.

A little over 4 quarts of Motorcraft LV out. A little over 4 quarts of Castrol Transmax ATF/CVT fluid in. This is my second time using this as a replacement for LV so far so good in both applications.
 
Toyota RAV 4 2004 just did 2nd drain and refill on it. 3.7 qts of fluid out and 3.7 qts of Idemitsu TLS in.

The old fluid had slight pink color to it… Got one more to go on this RAV to do.

It has 88,400 miles on her. We got it with 76,000 back in October. Runs great and easy to work on. Almost hardly any oil burning with it too. I’m very impressed by that.
 
2019 Ford Focus Active 1.5L 3cyl Dragon EcoBoost with Ford 8F35 8-speed transmission. 57,000km.

Drained and filled with Motorcraft Mercon ULV. Smooth as butter.
 
Had the ATF flush on my 2021 Ranger at the dealer at 33K miles. With the 10-speed tranny a lot of people complain about, I want to overmaintain it.
The flush was about $300; a drain pan drop and fill would have been twice that. I'll DiY the filter and replace the plastic pan at ~60k.
 
Had the ATF flush on my 2021 Ranger at the dealer at 33K miles. With the 10-speed tranny a lot of people complain about, I want to overmaintain it.
The flush was about $300; a drain pan drop and fill would have been twice that. I'll DiY the filter and replace the plastic pan at ~60k.
The 1st service is important as it removes much of the break in materials.
 
The 1st service is important as it removes much of the break in materials.

That's my opinion too. I believe the fluid can carry microabrasives in suspension that pass through the filter but still can produce wear. The zF 5hp30, a robust 1990s transmission that could handle well over 400 lb-ft of torque, was known for catastrophic failure due to eroded check balls in the valve body. The culprit, IMO? "Lifetime" fluid.
I don't normally have a transmission flushed, but this early in the game I think it's adequate to get rid of most of that break-in wear material.
 
That's my opinion too. I believe the fluid can carry microabrasives in suspension that pass through the filter but still can produce wear. The zF 5hp30, a robust 1990s transmission that could handle well over 400 lb-ft of torque, was known for catastrophic failure due to eroded check balls in the valve body. The culprit, IMO? "Lifetime" fluid.
I don't normally have a transmission flushed, but this early in the game I think it's adequate to get rid of most of that break-in wear material.
I like to do the initial spill and fill, then another at next oil change. The fluid generally looks pretty good after that. A third within a year, then every 30K or whatever.

Nothin too it.
 
Off-topic, but sort of related...I notice a number of people here stating that they added their favourite ATF and "a bottle of Lubegard red". I'm just curious why with fresh fluid you think adding the Lubegard is a good idea? I'm not saying it isn't, but I always thought of Lubegard as one of those things you add to an ailing transmission to limp it along until you can do a proper fluid exchange or repair.
 
Off-topic, but sort of related...I notice a number of people here stating that they added their favourite ATF and "a bottle of Lubegard red". I'm just curious why with fresh fluid you think adding the Lubegard is a good idea? I'm not saying it isn't, but I always thought of Lubegard as one of those things you add to an ailing transmission to limp it along until you can do a proper fluid exchange or repair.
I like to look at as preventive maintenance. Cant hurt but only help. LubeGard Red I found out through the years to be very beneficial to my various automatic vehicles with higher mileage in the past/present. Note -- only my opinion.
 
I did another ATF drain fill on my '05 Pilot, just hit 203k on the original transmission. This time with Valvoline Synthetic EP ATF.
Thus far the shifts seem quicker/smoother than with OE Honda DW-1 or the Beck Arnley DW-1 equivalent I've run in the past.
Got it off Amazon for $36, Anyone else tried this?
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Off-topic, but sort of related...I notice a number of people here stating that they added their favourite ATF and "a bottle of Lubegard red". I'm just curious why with fresh fluid you think adding the Lubegard is a good idea? I'm not saying it isn't, but I always thought of Lubegard as one of those things you add to an ailing transmission to limp it along until you can do a proper fluid exchange or repair.
I second what BAJA said, I've always found it to help my AT's perform better.
 
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Replaced the MTF in my Fiesta ST today, 4682km on the odo. How on earth do they say this is filled for life?

Anyway, factory fill out and Liqui Moly 75W in. Shifts noticeably more nicely now and I’ll sleep better for doing it.
 
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