I took the HPL plunge....

I had my VW Arteon done at 28k miles with a Motorvac carbon-clean model 245.

My buddy has been doing it for years.
I honestly don't think it ran this good new..Of course I got mine done for free 😁

If I keep it I'd get it done every 25k...
No walnuts please 🚗
 
True. But one costs $15.00 and an hour or so of time. The other costs hundreds of dollars and hours of time.
The one that costs $15, you have no idea what you did.
The expensive one, you know exactly what is being done. The price also depends on the vehicle though too.
 
I think, in addition to the valve spray, a good endoscope would be in order. Before I start fixing a problem, I like to know if the problem exists, how bad it is, and how effective was the choice of remedy. I don’t like to rely on guesses or belief about the extent of problems.

Using the endoscope, I would take before photos of the valves, and after photos. Then I can assess if the problem exists, and if the choice of remedy was effective.
Great addition and suggestion 👍
Might I add to that? I think 🤔 the things I suggested might still be good for preventative measures. It's great to be able to see, but sometimes when it finally gets noticed it can become more of a pain. UOA,we do this to see things before hand and I feel the three I suggested do have a place; at the very least the GDi spray and pea fuel cleaning as some of both of these will make it into the crankcase.
No intention to step on your toes or argue/debate as you have been a wonderful asset to this community, I simply had to backwards engineer it to see it in a different way 😊
 
Best, and only way to truly address the issue, would be walnut blast.
Maybe, I have over 325k on the suggestions I posted and suffer no issues so I simple suggested what has been successful;at least to me. If he's got a turbo, it can only need it that much more. These are only my humble opinions and I'm okay with what everyone else does. My experience in putting two K24 Earthdreams engines combined millage into the sum of over 900k miles on original motor and transmission has to count for something....maybe not all, but for someone it will.
 
True. But one costs $15.00 and an hour or so of time. The other costs hundreds of dollars and hours of time.
One works, one doesn't. I wouldn't be overly concerned with IVDs unless you having misfires etc. I did my VW at ~75K and it wasn't bad at all. I'm pushing HPL 5W40 Euro in a turbo VW with ~200hp/L including tracking it and I'll be doing a ~10K change this year.
 
Maybe, I have over 325k on the suggestions I posted and suffer no issues so I simple suggested what has been successful;at least to me. If he's got a turbo, it can only need it that much more. These are only my humble opinions and I'm okay with what everyone else does. My experience in putting two K24 Earthdreams engines combined millage into the sum of over 900k miles on original motor and transmission has to count for something....maybe not all, but for someone it will.
I am just saying what is the best. If you just want to consider chemicals, then yes, some are probably better than others. However, you really don't know what effect it has. Does it peal off some CBU? Perhaps. Does it clean it all? Absolutely not.
 
I am just saying what is the best. If you just want to consider chemicals, then yes, some are probably better than others. However, you really don't know what effect it has. Does it peal off some CBU? Perhaps. Does it clean it all? Absolutely not.

fair enough. can we agree if it gets to that point, might as well upgrade to titanium valve springs and retainers during the disassemble? 😆

I'm not looking to the absolute, only what the average Bob on this forum wants to do to keep it running. I might add a catch can too but if it's driven enough and up to temperature on a regular basis then it's possible like in my application that walnut blasting can be avoided hopefully. again, I enjoy your input and enthusiasm but most people try to do as little as possible to keep it running in fair condition. I always said if mine got to that point, I'm going for a piston upgrade with coated internals. I think what we can all agree on is preventative maintenance in some aspect ain't a bad idea.
 
fair enough. can we agree if it gets to that point, might as well upgrade to titanium valve springs and retainers during the disassemble? 😆

I'm not looking to the absolute, only what the average Bob on this forum wants to do to keep it running. I might add a catch can too but if it's driven enough and up to temperature on a regular basis then it's possible like in my application that walnut blasting can be avoided hopefully. again, I enjoy your input and enthusiasm but most people try to do as little as possible to keep it running in fair condition. I always said if mine got to that point, I'm going for a piston upgrade with coated internals. I think what we can all agree on is preventative maintenance in some aspect ain't a bad idea.
I agree that preventive maintenance is always good practice. My comment was just spured by what is the best. If someone wants to do through cleaning, this is way to go. I agree, most people want things just to work in order.
 
One works, one doesn't. I wouldn't be overly concerned with IVDs unless you having misfires etc. I did my VW at ~75K and it wasn't bad at all. I'm pushing HPL 5W40 Euro in a turbo VW with ~200hp/L including tracking it and I'll be doing a ~10K change this year.
you are driving it like you stole it. Great for the EGR and PCV systems. Blow by might be your issue, but you already are ahead of that. Has Liquimoly offered you a job yet??
 
No they are upset with my coup d'é tat to HPL.

@High Performance Lubricants is miles ahead from LiquiMoly on performance oils. I like a couple of LM additives but they can't come close as HPL isn't restricted by a specification oil thats merely a bottom of the barrel suggestion. The products at HPL are mind blowing 🤯 with good customer service. My only complaint is they are in a draconian state.
 
@High Performance Lubricants is miles ahead from LiquiMoly on performance oils. I like a couple of LM additives but they can't come close as HPL isn't restricted by a specification oil thats merely a bottom of the barrel suggestion. The products at HPL are mind blowing 🤯 with good customer service. My only complaint is they are in a draconian state.
I don't think I'd characterize the standard suite of Euro approvals as "bottom of the barrel".

What do you mean draconian?
 
I don't think I'd characterize the standard suite of Euro approvals as "bottom of the barrel".

What do you mean draconian?
I would. Why do you buy from @High Performance Lubricants ? Because you want something better,right? I'm just really starting to see where these companies aren't chasing after a price point but a performance point. Enthusiasts who live,work,sleep,dream,etc cars demand more. I can't fault them because I am one of them and it's a niche group and we pride ourselves of giving our cars better stuff.

Freedom restricted area/landfill of operation

Screenshot_20240408_143706_Brave.jpg
 
I would. Why do you buy from @High Performance Lubricants ? Because you want something better,right? I'm just really starting to see where these companies aren't chasing after a price point but a performance point. Enthusiasts who live,work,sleep,dream,etc cars demand more. I can't fault them because I am one of them and it's a niche group and we pride ourselves of giving our cars better stuff.

Freedom restricted area/landfill of operation

View attachment 213090
Sure there can be better but a Euro oil like M1 0W40 for example is hardly bottom end stuff.

Not sure on your strange political rant/comment, I understand what the word means...
 
 
My understanding is with GDI engines it is always a problem. How bad of a problem is the question.
Geez, another tool I gotta get! Maybe I can use it for medical experiments too....😁
I’ve found it really useful for looking around cars. It can see inside things, or behind things, in a way that even a mirror can’t match.

I’m not suggesting that you don’t have some sort of intake valve deposit, what I am suggesting is that you have no way of knowing how much, or if the remedy is working at all.

So, for example, you take a look at your intake valves snap a few pictures. Do your spray, go back and look and notice no difference.

Well, you’ve just thrown away $15 and unfortunately, you need to do something different to re,Dey the deposits. Repeating that process knowing that it’s gonna fail, hasn’t fixed your problem. It was a waste of money.

Alternatively, you could tell that your spray worked, and you needed to spend your $15 at some reasonable interval, and you would know, not assume, that your problem was solved with the spray

In our hypothetical example, you would be able to tell if you needed to take it to a shop for a different chemical treatment, or pay somebody to do the walnut blasting.

But you would know, it wouldn’t be a guess.

They are not crazy expensive, I have one like this, and it’s about $75.

 
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